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Sewing for total beginners - Part 2

Sewing for total beginners - Part 2

This is a continuation of the previous post Sewing for total beginners 


In this post we will continue to use the same pattern and make the other two garments, the pants and top.




I am really delighted with this loungewear collection , I particularly love the way in which three different fabrics blend together so perfectly. This is best achieved by using fabrics from the same range, these fabrics are in fact from Jaycotts! But they are only available in store not online right now.

Chester is well worth a visit !


The pattern is Kwik-Sew K4250

The fabrics I used are as I said available in store at Jaycotts.


If you wish to purchase a collection of quilting - type Fabrics ,which go together ,please remember to purchase fabrics by the same brand and to purchase by the metre. There are usually collections consisting of several fabrics which makes choosing colours easier.



If you prefer a dress cotton then there is endless choice ,  a cotton lawn would be perfect.





I like to do the preparation first and one thing I like to do is to make my own bias binding if it is needed. It is nicer than shop bought and as you are usually using leftover bits of fabric it is free!

This is a very short clip showing what the bias of the fabric is 





Once you have cut your bias strips to the width required. Join them together to make one long strip. Press it flat and press the seams open .



These are my bias srips waiting to be joined together.




I recommend one of these sets of tools Bias binding maker


Choose the size you need and cut your bias strip to a point at one end. Using a pin or an awl thread it through the bias binding maker.

Securely pin the pointed end to your ironing board and pull the tool away from the end being ready with an iron to press it as it emerges.

It's as simple as that!

Yes I know my ironing board cover needs replacing, I get through lots of them!




I like to wind my new binding around a piece of card to keep it neat.



The pattern pieces for the top need to be cut on the bias so follow the same instructions IE fold the width to the selvedge to find your bias, mark it and pin your fabric with the grainline  along the bias line.

This will give your garment plenty of give. Please note that the two bias pieces are cut out singly.




Looking at the instructions for Top B follow steps 1 and 2 to make the front bands.



At the end of step 2 you will have this.



Steps 3 and 4 describe how to gather the bottom edge of the upper front and how to stitch them together





And the instructions proceed to tell us how to attach the band and how to attach the 

Lower front to the upper front. 



The shoulder seams need stitching next and a bias edging has to be applied to the back neckline.

Step 7 explains how, but do ask me if you want me to explain more.




The instructions tell us to stitch the side seams next but I found it easier to attach the bias binding to the armholes before doing that.

Your binding needs to curve around some very curved edges so once you have started sewing really stretch the binding around the curves.



Then once it has been stitched down the binding will lie flat . It's a good idea to practice this if you have never applied bias binding to a curve before. Sometimes it is easier to learn a process by actually doing it rather than me just telling you. This is also why it is important for you to be able to read a pattern.



That's the top finished apart from the hem which I used my overedge foot on and then turned up and pressed before top -stitching.



The pants


I didn't follow the pattern instructions at all, so it is up to you if you want to try my method or stick to the pattern.

What follows are my instructions.


Join the fronts and the backs together and mark  which is the front and which is the back.

Also mark the fold on the waist




Tidy the seams ,then join front to back at the sides and then in one long seam starting at the bottom of one inside leg and ending at the other, matching the front seam intersection.



Measure a piece of 3/4" elastic around your waist without stretching it, add a couple of inches and cut the length required.



Make a narrow hem along the top of the pants and press. Fold over towards the inside along the fold line as stitch close to the edge leaving a gap at the centre back to thread the elastic through.





Thread the elastic through the casing using a safety pin. 

Pin the edges of the elastic together and try on, adjusting the elastic as necessary. You don't want it too snug or too loose.

When you are happy join the elastic securely and cut off any excess.

Close the gap by machine stitching.


Redistribute the fabric evenly along the elastic and stitch-in-the-ditch along the seam lines to stop the elastic from curling up when being worn.


Finish  the trouser legs in the same way as the top.




If you have some bias binding left over a nice touch is to press and stitch it in half and attach it to the centre front. This also helps you to know which way to put them on!



I used an assortment of fabrics but all on one theme so they work together very well.



Any of these pieces could be made in different fabrics for beach and holiday wear.



I love the jacket and I have worn it with white Palazzo pants and it looked fab.




The sleeves are amazing don't you think? 

The thing I like best about them is that they are cut very cleverly  and they don't get in the way at all. 

It is a fantastic pattern, great for any level of sewing ability and would look good on anyone.



So, have you made these three garments yet?
Click here for the link to the first post > > >


All equipment is from  visit the web site here Jaycotts web site

You can contact them by telephone on 01244 394099

Or why not pay them a visit?  Contact details and directions are here: Visit Jaycotts 


Thank you for reading this


Best wishes

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