NEWS

HOW TO SEW JEANS

POSTED BY ANGELA ON 03 MAY

This is perhaps the most daunting yet the most satisfying garment you can ever master. Jeans are personal and we all have differing views of what the perfect pair should look like.

Get them right and I guarantee that you will love them so much that you will never buy another pair again. I know I won't

This is not a quick project and you have homework to do before we even consider looking at patterns!

First of all, what is your preferred style? I love a high waist, narrow leg Jean which is very well fitted. If that is not your style there is straight leg, flared leg, boot cut, ankle length. And then there are jeans which fit below your waist or on your waist.

The first thing you need to do therefore is to figure out which style you prefer. You may already own a pair which you love and which fit you well. This is good news because you can use them to refer to when making your own. If not then go along to a clothes store and try on as many pairs as you can and take selfies of those you like. Make a note of the style and if you dare, measure at least the hips and waist.

For your next task take a look at jeans in general and make a note of different top-stitching ideas and ideas for pockets. You can customise your jeans in so many ways so do take time to look for ideas. Pinterest is great for ideas.

I tested a few different Jeans patterns and this is the one I recommend you buy first. It has a large variety of design choices and different sizes. This is the link to purchase it from Jaycotts. B5682 Trouser and Jeans pattern I chose this one because it is not complicated and the instructions are easy to follow.

The first part of the pattern to look at - and you can do this on Jaycotts web site before you order - is the size chart.

Ignore your shop bought size and go by your actual measurements, the sizing is very different in each.

We are going to be sewing with a stretch denim which has " negative ease" ( more about that later ) so if you are between sizes it is likely you will require the smaller size.

Another choice would be this pattern, which again is easy and has alternative style choices .M7547 Jeans and overalls

There are other jeans patterns of course including by indi designers but these two are great for people new to sewing jeans. I have made both of these patterns and love them both.

I also love Closet Case Ginger Jeans which is great for people who are experienced jeans sewers, and this is the pattern I chose for my denim pair.

You need to purchase your Denim. A good quality jeans weight denim is not cheap. You need one which has 2% Elastane or Lycra. This fabric will have a four way stretch and will mould to your body. Do not choose a denim without stretch as sewing it and fitting it is totally different.

You need some fabric to practice on and make wearable toiles with. For this look for a twill, cotton sateen or suiting as I have done but whatever you choose it must be substantial and it must have at least 2% Elastane or Lycra, and stretch with the grain as well as across it. IE it too must have four way stretch.

The very first thing you MUST do is put the whole lot in the washing machine. The fabric shrinks and we need it to do that now rather than after we have made our lovely jeans.

Don't use fabric conditioner ever on jeans, half a cup of white vinegar instead of fabric conditioner will help preserve the colour and I promise you it does not smell like a chip shop!

Let your fabric dry naturally and then press it on the wrong side.

All this work and we have not even started yet!

I purchased two lengths of stretch suiting to make two test garments with.

For this first version ( which I wear a lot ) I didn't do the fly front. Instead I stitched down the centre front seam and inserted a zip in the side seam.

Doing this enables me to test the fit and I still get a nice pair of pants to wear.

I found that the fit was good, I just needed to take them in slightly at the side seam.

When you make your test garment it is a very good idea to wear it for a day and make note of how it feels. Can you sit down in it comfortably? When you stand up do you have to pull the legs down? Is the waistband comfortable? Do they feel too big, too small? All these adjustments should be noted down and your pattern adjusted.

My next test garment will be to practice the techniques needed to make the actual denim pair for example the fly front, rivets and so on.

If you think this a waste of time and money at least make one test pair ( toile) the denim fabric is too nice and expensive to risk. Besides you are still getting some lovely pants to wear, nothing is wasted.

I experimented with back pockets and tried various designs including this one. If you plan a design on both pockets don't forget to mirror the design on each.

Another idea was to embroider a design - I am sure you can come up with your own ideas.

In the end however I decided that a plain back suited me better so I removed the pockets altogether. Positioning of back pockets is very important as it draws the eye, so take care to position them in a flattering position - higher rather than lower - and use safety pins please, not straight pins, when finding the perfect position.

Another bit of advice. You will be referring to your pattern instructions constantly and following every step carefully, so pin them on the wall, the curtains, wherever you can see them easily. You do not want to be hunting for them at every step!

Supplies

In addition to your denim and a pattern you will need the following, all available from Jaycotts. I will list each product with the direct link next to it.

Jeans thread. This is an extra strong thread for sewing denim, lots of colours to choose from. Choose the closest one to your fabric Extra strong thread
Top stitching thread. Match with or contrast with your fabric. Top stitching thread
Denim machine needles Denim machine needles
Top stitching needles Top stitching needles
Jeans Zip. (I had both 6" and 7" and found the 6" perfect ) Jeans zip
Jeans buttons Jeans button
Jeans rivets Jeans rivets
Vario plyers for attaching jeans buttons and rivets Vario plyers
Jean-a-ma-jig - great for sewing over bulky seams Jean a ma jig

Finally you will need half a metre of a substantial woven cotton for lining, pocket, facing etc.

If you are fortunate enough to own another sewing machine you will find it invaluable when sewing anything requiring top stitching . I have a basic sewing machine as well as my main machine which is the Brother innov-is 1300 so I threaded it up with my top stitching thread purely for speed.

Sewing machines have lots of different functions and a huge price range so I urge you to take advice from the experts and telephone or visit Jaycotts ( contact details at the end of the post) to discuss your needs and price bracket. If you plan on visiting them at their Chester showroom then you will be invited to try a few before making your mind up.

As I was saying I used my basic machine purely for top stitching, my normal machine for all the sewing and my overlocker to finish the seams.

If you are like most people and have one sewing machine then it is simply a question of changing needle and thread before top stitching. No overlocker? A zig-zag stitch will do just fine.

I decided to make another pair in a navy blue stretch suiting this time to practice the pockets, fly front and placing rivets.

I was quite happy to do this because I have ended up with another very nice pair of trousers.

If you don't want to be bothered with all these test garments then skip the previous pair and start with making these so that you can practice techniques and get the fit right at the same time.

I have been testing various patterns and actually made several pairs, some I didn't finish, because I really wanted to find the best patterns for you to make, the patterns which had the best instructions and were not too difficult to sew.

There are various options for finishing the waistband and they are all down to personal taste.

If you want a waistband which stretches and is soft and moves with you ( and it will do despite the top stitching) then cut out the waistband and facing in denim with no interfacing.

For a waistband with a bit of give cut out the waistband in denim and the facing in a strong cotton fabric - a poplin or quilting fabric is ideal, and choose a print which you love as you will see it and smile every time you put them on.

The third option if you like a firmer waistband - as I do - is to cut out the top piece in denim, and interface the cotton lining with a medium interfacing.

It really is all down to personal choice

I have stitched my waistband on and it is ready for top stitching and the button to go on.

This is my wearable toile which I must say I am extremely happy with.

With or without a belt the waistband supports the trouser perfectly and my top stays put and doesn't come untucked.

Please note that I chose high waisted patterns throughout, if you choose the versions which sit below the natural waistline, and I know many of you prefer them, yours will look different to mine, and you may not even want your top to be tucked in ever! If that is the case fit them to your body under your top and test them by sitting down and standing up a few times to make sure that you are happy with the fit.

Also, if you are making a very skinny jean then expect some wrinkling around the back of your thigh during wesr , it's because of the snug fit - the ease has to come from somewhere!

When choosing your top stitch thread you have lots and lots of choice. If you are nervous about your stitches looking wonky then go for a thread to match your fabric, but if you are feeling braver (and why not) go for one of the many colour choices available. Practice a little until you get the stitch length you like best and enjoy your contrast stitching.

Whatever you choose then just put an normal sewing thread in the bobbin.

This is my actual pair of denim jeans that I am working on. Take it step by step and follow each part of the pattern instructions to the letter, you could mark each stage as you go along if it makes it easier to remember where you are up to.

Keep trying on at every stage because your denim will behave differently to your test fabric and the most important thing is to get the fit right.

I found that I needed to take mine in quite a lot despite the test garment fitting me perfectly.

My Ginger jeans have a fabric stay which covers the entire front of the jeans, the Butterick pattern has pocket bags cut out in the cotton fabric. I love both patterns,

I just don't want you worrying if yours don't look exactly like this, because it depends on which pattern you use.

The fly opening is less complicated on the Butterick pattern but whatever you do don't be daunted by it.

I know it seems scary but once you start doing it and taking it step by step, following the instructions to the letter it will all make sense.

If you are nervous then practice a few times on your test garment first. You could even cut out the fly part and a bit of the front in some spare fabric and copy a pair of trousers you already own. Once it "clicks" how to insert the zip it will be plain sailing, but like everything else it takes practice. Just don't give up! Tack everything first and only machine sew once you are happy with the result.

On this picture I have tacked ( basted) the centre front opening and stitched the rest of the centre front seam , overlocking the edge. Again all the patterns vary at this point which is why I asked you to put your instructions where you can see them at all times.

You will find that the Butterick pattern makes it far easier to insert the zip and the fly than the Ginger pattern and quite honestly there is little to distinguish between the finished garment - another good reason for staying with a pattern you know.

My only gripe with the big established pattern companies is that their sizing has not kept up with modern day figures. For example on Butterick patterns I need a size 10 for hip/ bust measurements etc, yet I am expected to have a 25" waist which I don't think I have ever had ,and is totally unrealistic for real people. The independent companies do get the hip - waist - bust ratio perfect for real women. This sizing issue is one reason why many people struggle to choose their correct pattern size - it is very confusing! Unless the your pattern size is right we have no chance in producing a fit which we are happy with.

I speak to a lot of sewing newbies and this is a real issue.

The only thing I can say is to measure yourself correctly, ignore the pattern size and choose the bust measurements for a dress or top, and the nearest hip measurement if making pants or skirt, and add larger seam allowances from the hip to the top of the waist. For me increasing just the side seams from the usual 5/8" to 1" gives me plenty of room for taking in or letting out, and that is what I do, adjusting to fit when I do my first fitting.

But I agree, it is time all sizing was brought up to date.

At the bottom of my fly opening I used the buttonhole foot to make bar tacks to hold the fly and the fly facing together. You could easily do this by hand if you prefer.

By the way it helps enormously if you use french chalk to draw your top stitching lines before sewing them

On skinny jeans patterns especially you may notice the difference in width between the front and the back leg. Don't worry, this is perfectly normal, the larger back is to accommodate your calf and thigh and helps the seams to sit down the centre of your side leg.

Similarly the back leg of skinny jeans is usually slightly shorter than the front leg, this extra length needs to be eased in between the knee and the crotch. This allows you some wriggle room when wearing them!

There is one little inexpensive gadget - the link is above - which is so very useful for sewing bulky seams with ease. Use it where seams cross each other and see how easy it makes it. Saves on broken needles too.

I talked about waistbands before . I always cut mine a couple of inches longer to give room for any adjustments.

On the facing I stitch 5/8" from the edge and this gives me a fold line which I turn under and press. Try on and adjust the fit as necessary.

Then I stitched the right side of the waistband in place, matching all notches and pressed.

My zipper was too long so at this stage I used plyers to remove the metal teeth from above the seam line.

Press the seam and fold the waistband right sides together and stitch the centre fronts level with the fly fronts and stitch. Remove excess fabric and trim the corners, turn right sides out and press.

Press the waistband flat and tack together. The facing should be level with or just below the seam.

Adjust the waistband until you are perfectly happy with it and then top stitch all the way around top, bottom and fronts. Start at the centre back where the back stitches will be hidden by the belt carrier. Make sure that you catch the facing down.

Stitch the buttonhole then use FRAY check to stop the fabric from fraying before carefully cutting the buttonhole with pointed scissors.

Mark the position of the button and use an awl to make a hole for the back part of the button. Then attach the button back using your plyers.

Do the same with your rivets. They usually go on the outside of pockets etc, but please be as creative as you like!

When I pinned up the hem I left the length long enough to accommodate different heel heights and besides I hate it when trousers are just that bit too short and I am forever pulling the leg down when I stand. I want a pair of jeans that I can put on and forget about.

When you have finished sewing your beautiful jeans you will need to discard all of your sewing machine needles - including your overlocker needles as they will most certainly be blunt. (I do this every time I finish a garment so that I don't forget. Needles have a short life span)

I wore my jeans all day today as I wore them to visit my son. I had a two hour train journey there and back, shopping, a look round an art gallery, copious coffee breaks and a large lunch.

They were extremely comfortable all day, the waistband remained crease free even at the end of the day,and they felt great. My top stayed tucked firmly in place and best of all my son said " nice jeans, where did you get them from?"

One minor niggle - and it is minor - was a small crease just beneath the waistband at the back.

So to get rid of this when I make my next pair I need to shorten the back by a mere half inch. I have a slightly hollow back and that is what caused the crease. All I need to do is to just gently snip a curve of fabric from the back as shown above, this will cause the fabric to hug my back more. Problem solved!

When I make my next pair they will be more dressy than casual and I will make them even narrower from the hip and all the way down the leg. I can't wait to get started, in fact I just ordered more fabric......

I have spent an entire month researching and trying different patterns and fabrics for this post. Some of the patterns looked better on than others, some denims were better than others. I do feel that jeans need to be made from the best quality fabric that you can afford and that the very best results are achieved only by making test garments first. I am aware that a lot of new sewers skip this step and do not realise the value in doing it, but it really is important to test the fit of your garment and to practice any new processes before you cut into your main fabric. It is also important to wear your test garments at least for a day to make sure you are happy with everything. This is not a waste of time I promise you. You are after all making more additions to your wardrobe!

I am more than happy for you to print this post to keep and use.

To visit Jaycotts showroom just follow the directions on this link. Visit Jaycotts

For all enquiries just call 01244 394099

Do sign up for the Email Newsletter and be the first to read about new products, classes, sales and much more.

For sewing queries or for comments on my blog post please either message me through Jaycotts or complete the contact form on my blog SewAngelicThreads but please leave your email address in the body of your message to enable me to reply to you. I received a lovely message recently but I was unable to respond to it very sadly

Finally we would all love to see photographs of your jeans!

Best wishes

Angela - SewAngelicThreads

MIDDLE TO LATE 1940S FASHION: DRESSES AND TRENCH COATS

POSTED BY ANGELA ON 13 MAR

It wasn't until 10:30 AM on 12 February 1947 that a relatively unheard of Christian Dior unveiled his "New Look"

Taking inspiration from flower petals he celebrated femininity with defined narrow waists and full flowing skirts. It was a defiance towards the rationing which had restricted fashion for several years.

Before this monumental event though , and even when WW2 had ended, we were still gripped by austerity and it was getting worse. We were encouraged to take two very worn dresses and coats for example and somehow make the best bits of each into one wearable garment. Shoe leather had run out and women's shoes were made with wooden soles which were very much hated. Everything was becoming more and more difficult and it seemed never ending, so the advent of a new fashion house really brought excitement to life.

If you are after a 1940s look then many of today's styles are very similar. Go for a low heel, preferably a chunky heel, a brogue or a wedge sandal and they will be fine.

One item which did prove popular was the Siren Suit, Sir Winston Churchill loved his and had one made from pin-stripe suiting (of course)

But the rest of us loved them too, they were designed to wear over normal clothes, or night clothes when the air raid siren went off. Air raid shelters were dirty, cold and smelly and these garments were very much necessary.

Today we still wear a type of this garment in the form of jumpsuits. Take a look at the pattern range available from Jaycotts Jumpsuit pattern

I have a blog post too An easy Simplicity Jumpsuit so do take a look at the tutorial. Did you see the Sewing Bee 2019 As one of the challenges was to sew a jumpsuit and they all looked fabulous.

Factories were still being run by women - it took a long while before the men came home and women were forced out of work. Supplies were still not reaching us so even after WW2 had ended we were still very much rationed - we were short of everything. Even those tiny ends of thread which we cut off and throw away were kept and treasured.

The women's land army wore dungarees, or trousers and jumpers much like my outfit below.

Slacks as they were called then were usually made from Gaberdine, this is actually fairly hard to sew if you are a beginner. True it is hard wearing and almost crease resistant but I would choose a plain heavy cotton drill or similar. Other than that choose a denim or other medium to heavy weight cotton.

The usual colour for utility suits, slacks, skirts and so on was Black, brown or blue - military colours.

The blog post for the trousers is Simplicity 1940s style trousers

And the blouse which is from the same pattern is Simplicity 1940s style. Blouse

I do enjoy wearing this outfit by the way, it is a good mixture of smart yet comfortable.

For most of the time hair was tied up or back. It wasn't always possible to have it washed and besides it was dangerous to have loose hair when operating machinery.

Hats were worn with coats but it became commonplace for headscarves to be worn even with pretty dresses.

To make your own take a triangle of fabric ( so that it can also be tied around your neck or the strap of your handbag) ,and hem using a narrow hem foot.

Narrow Hem foot there is quite a selection of types and makes so if you are unsure give Jaycotts a ring and they will help you.

They come with instructions and they are easy to use. If you struggle with corners then a little tip is to sew right off the end on one side and start again as soon as you can on the next side, then just complete the missed section with hand stitches. Nobody will know.

This fabric is Liberty Tana Lawn, but use any you have to hand. In "Make do and mend" style I am not purchasing anything new for these posts, I am using whatever I can find in my stash. Besides what is the point of relentlessly purchasing new fabrics when the one you loved a year or so ago is still there gathering dust?

The 1949's Dress

I love love love this dress. In fact it is my favourite and it was made from fabric so old I cannot remember where or when I bought it.

The fabric appears to be a linen and viscose mix, (not unlike the Rayon which would have been used back in the 40s) and it is beautiful.

I washed it before I used it, and I washed it again after I wore it this week. I hung it up to dry and it hardly needed any ironing.

It is easy to work with, easy to care for and swishes when you walk. Perfect.

It is a simplicity design again ( I love simplicity patterns, they always fit me so well)

And is available from Jaycotts Simplicity 8686

I just about had enough fabric but not enough for a belt .Which I am not worried about. I also did not want a collar so I left that off too.

If you are not familiar with patterns all the information you need is on the back of the pattern envelope. Your body measurements help you to choose the size you need to cut and the finished garment measurements give an indication of the wearing ease allowed so take that into account when choosing your size. Your pattern size will almost always be larger than your commercial dress size. That is normal. I chose size 12 and it needed no adjustments.

The pattern has some very nice design features which I love. It has a side zip, gathers along the front yoke for shape,and a buttoned back yoke. These are easily tackled even by someone new to sewing.

For the back yoke we need to make rouleau loops, and I made covered buttons too. I love gadgets of any sort and look for any excuse to use them.

Rouleau loops are totally a doddle to make if you have one of these clever little things which easily turn your fabric the right way out. This Prym turning set is incredibly easy to use and I find that I use it a lot. It comes in a pack of three sizes and for this i used the smallest size. You sew one long tube and cut it into smaller lengths after it is finished, so there is no fuss.

Another thing I like to use as much as possible are hand covered buttons. They are also fun to make, use your scraps of fabric and always match perfectly. What is there not to love?

You need one or two items ,all available from Jaycotts.

Firstly you need the buttons to cover. They come in various sizes. Self cover buttons These are plastic but you can also choose metal if you prefer .

And - to make it easier - a Prym Button Maker

They are very simple to make. There is a template on the back of the button pack which you use to cut your fabric. Gather the circle of fabric and place the button face down onto it and pull the gathers tight and fasten off. Put the button in the relevant part of the button maker and at this stage I like to add a couple of drops of Fray Check

This is optional but it ensures that the button fabric stays put and does not fray.

Press the disc over the fabric using the top of the button maker and that's it done.

These are my rouleau loops prior to sewing the buttons on. Make sure that your buttons are the right size, if they are too large you will struggle to fasten them, too small and they will annoy you by keep popping open.

I used small shoulder pads and covered them in my fabric . Shoulder pads

I used my Blind hem foot to make invisible hems on the skirt and the sleeves.

These are available for most models of sewing machine - mine is a Brother Brother sewing machines and I love it.

Whenever I use a stitch which I have not used for a while I need a reminder of the settings so I always make sure that the manuals for my machines are close at hand. It is particularly useful in reminding me how to fold the fabric for blind hemming.

This is the back of the dress, I do like the fact that there is no zip down the centre breaking up the pattern.

This style of dress with a calf length full skirt, short sleeves and high neckline is very fashionable at the moment - but at a price. The ones I have seen, which do not have the added touches such as shoulder pads and self covered buttons retail in excess of £100! If that is not an incentive to make your own I don't know what is.

This dress is so lovely that I would not hesitate to make it again.

The Trench Coat

Trench coats were extremely popular as were all things Military style.

They were normally made from a wool fabric and were lined with rabbit fur so they were extremely warm, shower proof and durable..

Faux suede is not shower-proof please note

My pattern is a more modern take on this classic design Simplicity 8554

In my stash was a length of tan faux suede and a small piece of black. Faux Suede

It is unlined and has no fastenings so it is perfect for a beginner.

The pattern has vents up the sides but I wanted to change it to one vent at the back. You can use this method to create vents or pleats at the front or back of skirts and dresses too.

The coat back does not have a seam on the pattern. So we need to create one. In order to add a 5/8" seam allowance to the centre back I used this clever little gadget

- it is an Ergonomic parallel tracing wheel and it is brilliant for measuring and marking seam allowances and hems all in one easy process. I have to say that it is my favourite toy at the moment

As you can see I have marked the seam allowance and also the vent. All I need do now is to cut it out. You probably should make a new paper pattern, especially if you are doing this on something you will make again.

This coat as I said is unlined and it was obvious to me that in order to make the inside attractive I needed to bind the seams. This is called a Hong Kong seam. I realised that I would need several metres of bias binding and as I prefer to make my own this was my next task.

Remember the liberty Tana Lawn scarf at the beginning of this blog? Well this is what I used to make my binding. I never buy bias binding ready made, the quality of my own is so much better. It is easy to make with the right equipment too.

Cut your bias strips to whatever size you need, remembering that a 1" binding takes double the width in fabric. Clover Bias Binding Maker

This set contains five different sizes so choose the width you need. It is a good idea to have a practice first.

Cut the end to a point to make it easier to thread the fabric through - use your seam ripper point to help if necessary and pin this end to your ironing board.

Slowly pull the binding maker away from the pinned end pressing the newly formed binding as you go.

What we have just made is called a Single Fold Bias Binding, to make a double fold binding - which is what we need - simply press it in half.

I knew that I would need a lot of binding so I had to join several strips together.

To keep the binding neat I wound it around a piece of card.

Attaching it to the seam is simple if you use an Adjustable bias binder foot there are other makes available so do contact Jaycotts for more details.

It is so easy to apply the binding, just thread the binding through the binding foot, put the fabric inside the binding and adjust the width so that the machine stitches just along the edge of the binding. And then stitch. It really is that simple, and makes a huge difference to the inside of any unlined garment.

I had a small piece of contrast faux suede which I used for the top of the front overlay.

It is very easy to sew, for any seams that you do not want to bind use a felled seam or a French seam - see All about seams my blog post showing how to achieve lots of different seam finishes.

I put binding all around the facing, the back seam, the coat and sleeve hems and for the sleeve and coat side seams I used a flat felled seam.

I think that with all the rationing and saving of coupons it is incredible how very well dressed everyone was.

The government really got people to rally round and take up the challenge and it couldn't have been easy.

Homes were bombed frequently and people were left with absolutely nothing, yet people gave what they could and they somehow managed.

Food was restricted yet people were healthy, clothes and furniture were rationed but people stood together and made the best of it.

I actually love 1940s fashion it was high quality,elegant and simple. Clothes were made to last and "throw away fashion" was a term which would have been abhorrent and to be honest should be today.

This Trench coat is in the style of the era in a modern fabric which I feel works very well.

It is very simple in design but looks great. Don't be afraid to experiment. The front overlay could be lined with the same fabric as your binding, you could add buttons or a really wide belt. Patterns are just ideas and are open to interpretation.

In these last two blog posts - my previous one is Dressing 1940s style - there is a Sew Over it tea dress to make too, so do take a look.

My next two blogs will continue with the advent of Dior's New Look, Chanel couture, and by complete contrast, poodle skirts, Rock and Roll and the 1950s in general. Very different to the 1940s

Remember to sign up for emails from Jaycotts and find out about sales, new products and all the new fabulous workshops which are now happening in their Chester store.

Thank you for reading this post. I would really appreciate your comments

Angela

SewAngelicThreads

1940'S FASHION AND SEW OVER IT TEA DRESS PATTERN REVIEW

POSTED BY ALEX ON 06 FEB

War time Fashion

The second world war started in 1939 and didn't end until 1945. During this time rationing of almost everything was in place and continued even after the war had ended until supplies started to become available again.

It was in 1941 that the government introduced rationing which greatly influenced clothing and how it was worn. Strict guidelines governed how many buttons were allowable and how many seams were acceptable and so on.

Don't think for one minute that fashion was dull though, far from it. The designs were high quality and the famous CC41 utility label was also a sign of excellent value for money and you knew it was made to last. The CC41 designs were devised by a panel of top designers including Hardy Amies and Norman Hartnell no less.

A combination of paying for your clothes with money and coupons meant that the class divide had no impact on what you wore - everyone was entitled to exactly the same.

These are the exact details of what a utility dress should consist of;-

"Examples of details of restriction orders when making Utility dress: it could have no more than two pockets, five buttons, six seams in the skirt, two inverted or box pleats or four knife pleats, and one hundred and sixty inches (four metres) of stitching. No superfluous decoration was allowed. It should be simple, practical, agreeable-looking, inexpensive and made of good material"

It should also be noted that one quarter of the population, women included ,were now in uniform of some sort and with women being ordered to maintain glamour at all times, these uniforms were also beautifully tailored. The most coveted being the Wren's uniform - worn with red lipstick and curled hair of course.

Coty produced lipstick and face powder which was not rationed, as well as producing such things as foot powder for use by the military.

It should be noted that selling these utility garments were a great source of income to the government.

This booklet was produced in the early 40s as supplies were becoming more and more scarce. The wool and cotton fabric, and dark coloured dyes were needed by the military for uniforms and for blackout curtains .

We were not receiving imports of cotton and silk because of the high cost of shipping goods from abroad - China for one, and by that I mean the cost in lives as well as in monetary terms.

We must remember too that factories were used for war work and instead of producing the glamorous clothes of the 1930s ,were now making uniforms, bandages, blackout fabric and ammunition.

The only fabrics left to be turned into clothing was mainly fabrics such as rayon which was made from all sorts of fibres mixed together. There could be some polyester in there as well as wool, cotton, wood pulp and so on. This fabric was easy to take care of, was breathable and dyed easily. Perfect!

When this booklet was produced the war had been going on for a long time and everything was in short supply. We were told to be inventive and not to waste anything - not even ends of thread.

New garments were made out of various part worn garments and knitwear unravelled to be knit into something else. Fair Isle patterns were used, as oddments of different colours were used to make the design.

It was necessary for women to be able to sew and if you couldn't, Sewing Bee's were set up around the country to help you. The Queen Mother held one at Buckingham Palace.

Tailoring was still exquisite because frankly clothes HAD to last for years. With the men gone to war women were told to alter their husbands and sons suits to make garments for themselves and their children. Men's trousers were wide cut and a skirt or two could easily have been made from a pair.

This is a typical pattern of the era. Softly feminine, knee length and demure. We were told to use "cheerful coloured fabrics with a small print so that no pattern matching was required"

We were also told to be inventive and fashion a new blouse out of a man's shirt or a jacket out of curtains - and we did!

This pattern is available from Jaycotts click on the link to go straight to their web site. Simplicity 8686

I will be making this dress in my next blog post if you want to be getting your supplies ready

This is from 1943 but it is an American design and does not conform to British utility standards because it has a lot of pleats, which we were discouraged from having.

It is a nice pattern though and if you want to make it you can order it from Jaycotts on this link McCalls 7433

America was subject to rationing but it was not as strict as here which is why they had silk stockings to give away to British women and chocolate to our children. We had rayon stockings but they were unpopular so women resorted to gravy browning and a pencil line drawn with an eyebrow pencil, or if not ankle socks. Rayon stockings really must have been awful!

With women working on the land and in factories it became normal for them to be worn in everyday life. This pattern is very typical with its high waisted wide leg trousers. Plaids were very popular, so too was anything military looking as it was seen as being patriotic, so shoulder pads appeared in almost everything. If you have garments in your wardrobe left over from the 80's they wouldn't look out of place during the blitz years.

I have made this pattern already and links to my blog posts can be found on the following links .

The pattern is from Jaycotts again, Simplicity 8243

I have made the trousers and the blouse and the links to the tutorials are

Trousers . Simplicity 1940s style blouse

Notice anything wrong with the top? That's right. I used more than the regulation five buttons!

The SewOverIt 1940s Tea dress pattern review and tutorial.

This is a lovely pattern, but be warned it is very short, I needed to lengthen the skirt by four inches.

It is very close to being a utility dress in style, however the neckline would have been higher - look glamorous at all times ladies but heaven forbid you look anything less than modest too!

The other detail is that the sleeve cuff folds over and double cuffs were banned. Why? Because by banning double cuffs under the utility scheme Britain is estimated to have saved 5 million square metres of fabric per year. This includes men's and children's wear, night clothes, coats etc. You can now see why the utility scheme makes perfect sense.

Before you start, decide what size you are and be honest with your measuring! The pattern gives the finished measurements too. If in doubt cut the size which corresponds with your bust measurement ( wearing the correct underwear) as this is the hardest area to fit. It is quite acceptable to cut out the skirt for example in a different size and merge the two together.

I know you are not going to make a toile,so I will tell you what I do. I always cut the seam allowance just on the side seams at 1" instead of 5/8" to give a bit of extra play. And I never ever cut into notches - it weakens the fabric for one - and you may just need that extra bit of seam allowance. It's very bad practice so please don't do it!

I measured and cut the skirt length by 4" on each piece. You may want to alter the pattern itself first instead.

Rayon is very much available, it is a fabulous fabric to work with and there is plenty of choice at MinervaCrafts. It is inexpensive too. Gingham was a popular choice back then.

You could also in the spirit of "make do and mend" add a contrast top if you wanted to.

First tack the dress together to check the fit, don't skip this step, you will regret it if you do. To make it easy to fit tack straight up the back and leave an opening on one side instead.

Once you are happy and have made any adjustments put the bodice together and add the facings. Press every seam as you go.

The pattern doesn't mention this but the sleeves look better and are more authentic gathered at the top instead of being eased in. To do this measure 2" both sides of the shoulder and run two rows of gathering stitches inside the seam allowance. Gather to fit.

The pattern instructions are fabulous so I don't need to go over every step with you, just follow them and I will add hints and tips to complement them

The dress needs shoulder pads. You need the small size Shoulder pads for set in sleeves

If they are still too wide for the dress then simply trim the top curved edges a little. And they look nicer covered so all I did was to fold some of my dress fabric over them and whizz round with the overlocker. Simple . Whatever you do though don't let a single pin anywhere near your overlocker when you are sewing, you can cause serious damage to your machine or to yourself!

This is the inside of my dress after the seams have been pressed and neatened. How is it that I never have exactly the correct shade of zipper? And thread for that matter. It doesn't matter that much because it will not be seen once it is sewn in place.

Zippers of all varieties ( I used a regular zip) are available from Jaycotts

All types of zips this is the link to the fascinating complete selection. You want a regular dress zip for this project.

Measure the zip along the fabric and sew the centre back seam up to the bottom of the zipper teeth. Tack the rest of the seam, where the zip will go

Press the seam allowance for the entire back open .

Many people are scared of zips but don't be. Over many years of sewing I have discovered my own foolproof method.

Firstly lay the zip face down over the seam with the teeth exactly in the centre of the back opening and pin it in place.

This is the important bit - take some double sided tape - Prym wonder tape is brilliant, get it from Jaycotts Prym wonder tape

Use it to stick the zip to any part where a seam crosses another - at the waist for example. You will have noticed that quite often when inserting a zip and it crosses a seam it is difficult to keep the seams matching. This is because of how the machine works, the feed dogs work differently to the top tension causing the fabric to slide around a bit as you are sewing two entirely different fabrics together. Using double sided basting tape holds everything firmly in its place.

It's fabulous, try it!

The next magic step is to baste the zip to the seam allowance only at this stage. These stitches are permanent so use a matching thread. I used a contrast for demonstration purposes

And finally baste (tack) again through all layers, 1/4" from the edge of the zipper tape these will be removed later so use a contrast thread and do it either by hand or on the machine

This .method is so foolproof and it works!

The trick with inserting any zip is to anchor it firmly in place before going anywhere near it with your sewing machines. I guarantee that your zips will be a thing of beauty from now on.

Of course if you are still not convinced then move the zip from the centre back to a side seam where it will not be as noticeable. There is no rule which states zips have to be in the back seam, I often move mine to the side and sometimes to the front if I want to make a feature with an exposed zip.

This is a zip to be proud of and yours will be too.

All I need do now is to slip stitch the facing down at the top. You can put your shoulder pads in at the same time, extending them just beyond the shoulder seam to the edge of the seam allowance. Stitch them in place loosley.

Then do the hem in your preferred way.

About sewing machines

Although we are entering into the spirit of the era I am not going to go to the expense of buying vintage fabric or machinery. The whole point is to use what you already have and try not to buy anything new. For that reason I used fabric from my stash. I know that we think it is fun to see who has the biggest and best stash of fabric, but I have been questioning what the point is and I am not buying any more fabric unless I need something specific. it's wasting money buying something you like and never using it.

I don't expect you to sew on a machine with a treadle or a hand crank, I learned on a treadle and boy do I love modern day machines!

This is mine, the Brother Innov-is 1300 Brother Innov-is 1300 and I love it! It does everything you could possibly want a machine to do and more.

But meanwhile grab a cup of tea and browse all the wonderful machines on offer , you will be full of inspiration .. Sewing machines at Jaycotts. And again, please don't feel that you will be talked into buying a machine which is beyond your needs or your purse. Jaycotts sell great machines at all levels and at all prices and are famous for their customer service.

Utility dresses made at home were likely to have pinked seems or at best hand overcast seams. Pinking does not stand up to wear and tear or even much washing as the fabric will still fray and the seam will eventually split. Who wants to hand overcast every seam???

If you do not have an overlocker the best option is to use a zigzag stitch on your seams or better still your machine will most likely have come with an overlock foot

Overlock foot .I use mine a lot when I don't want to have to change the threads in my overlocker , and besides it gives great results. Again, give Jaycotts a ring if you are not sure which is best for your machine

And, if you do fancy an overlocker, they are fabulous and I use mine a lot, take s look at these - they are all good! Overlockers at Jaycotts

Adding unnecessary buttons to a dress which were not functional was not allowed, but I think that they look pretty. Choose a flower or a heart shape or anything which looks great with your Rayon fabric

There are some lovely Novelty buttons on this link, or Decorative buttons .There are plenty more to choose from too.

I am really delighted with my dress, it will be great to wear in the summer. I accessorised it with pearls and block heeled shoes. I promise to talk about shoes and accessories in my next post.

Cardigans were popular because you needed to be able to wear your dress all year round. The Ministry of information encouraged us to wear something white because we kept bumping into each other in the dark! So a white cardigan is perfect.

Hair was usually fastened away from the face in a "victory roll" I'm afraid that my victory roll wouldn't stay in place - I don't think they washed their hair as often as we do now.

Turbans and headscarves were also very popular

This dress will suit most figures and I am delighted with the fit and how flattering it is.

If you ever want to use a genuine vintage pattern there are some points to think about.

Depending on how old the pattern is there may be no seam allowances or darts marked in the way we are used to seeing them. There may be no instructions.

Our figures were very different and the underwear of the day was very different to what we wear now, waists were slimmer, bodies were longer and sizing was different. So you really cannot get away without making a toile first.

The sleeves look good folded over even though, as we know, it was not allowed. Writing this post has made me think about my own sewing and collecting habits and I am already making changes.

I hope that you have enjoyed this post. Please contact Jaycotts for any machine or product enquiries and me for any sewing queries. I would love to see your photographs old or new.

SewAngelicThreads

https://www.sewangelicthreads.co.uk

Best wishes

Angela

SWEET PEA IN-THE-HOOP MACHINE EMBROIDERY DESIGNS.

POSTED BY ANGELA ON 14 DEC

A while ago I was fortunate to meet the Sweet Pea team and see their amazing designs close up.

Sweet Pea were invited by Brother UK to do a roadshow in the UK and we were delighted that Jaycotts was chosen as one of the few locations to host an event promoting their incredible in the hoop embroidery designs

Cutest Cupcake Collection

If you have not come across Sweet Pea before then you are in for a treat. This is embroidery at its most exciting, the designs are mostly made entirely in the hoop,and what stunning designs they are!

There are three Collections available at Jaycotts right now, with new collections from Sweet Pea when they are launched in the New Year

The Cupcake collection, which I am making at the moment.

The FARM ANIMAL BAG which is utterly delightful. It even contains soft toys. What an amazing gift this would be for a special child. I dare not make this one just yet until I have time to make a few of them for all the young children in my family.

And the Floral fantasy quilt which is on my to-do list. I will blog about this one in the new year ready for spring, as I have a few ideas of things I want to make for my home using these designs

This photo was taken by Marion Barnett

First of all let me introduce you to the team. On the far left is Holly, and next to her is Allison. Allison is actually the creator of Sweet Pea Embroidery. She was looking for something new and exciting to make and as she couldn't find anything she started to produce free-standing lace earrings which she sold on market stalls.

So this is a very new company.

Next to Allison is Annette and on the far right is Emma.

Sweet Pea are unique in that they specialise in " in the hoop" Embroidery.

This form of embroidery is different to other forms of machine embroidery where a part made article is embroidered and then made into a garment or other item. With this method the actual piece of work is either fully or partially completed without removing it from the hoop!

The designs are available to purchase directly from them online so do look at the

Sweet Pea website But now a very limited number of places are now selling some of their exclusive designs - and happily Jaycotts is one of them!

So, what designs can be made " in the hoop?" Well the answer is almost anything! Toys,table runners, bags with zippers, quilts and much more.

Some of the comments I heard from people who have used the designs are that the instructions are very clear and easy to follow with pictures for every stage, and that is true, time whizzes by very quickly when making one of the designs,and everything is so very well explained . They really are addictive.

For all these designs you need an embroidery Machine. Sweet Pea recommend Brother machines.

There is a wide choice of embroidery machines at Jaycotts and your choice is dependant on whether you want an embroidery only machine or a machine which does both sewing and embroidery. These machines sew normally but easily switch to an embroidery machine at the touch of a button.

My own machine is embroidery only because I do also have a fantastic Brother sewing machine

My Embroidery machine , pictured above, is reviewed by me on my blog, Brother innov-is 800e

Take a look at the machines on offer at Jaycotts Brother. Sewing and embroidery machines and or call in to their Chester showroom for an amazing range to look at and try out.

Sweet pea have a terrific Facebook page by the way, with a massive following

Sweet Pea on Facebook you can show your own sweet pea makes and enter into their competitions. There is a monthly sew-along with prizes to be won.

There is also a quilt block of the month.

The cutest Cupcake collection

If you are looking for gifts then this is perfect. If your recipient owns an embroidery machine then the CD is the perfect choice. But if you love to give handmade as gifts as I do then this collection, or even just one or two items from it would be perfect.

Each of the design comprises of a full set of instructions which you can either print or open on your computer and follow them off there. The instructions are very comprehensive and easy to follow with photographs and text to show you exactly what you need to do step by step

There are options for different hoop sizes. So, to get started put your CD into the computer and open the files.

You can choose if you want to print your instructions as I prefer, or if you have room for your computer next to your machine you can follow the instructions from there.

The part which needs to go onto a pen drive is marked "pes" file. Once you have found that click on it, and you will find that it will be in the correct format for your Brother Embroidery Machine. (There are options for other makes )

When you have transferred the .pes file to your pen drive insert it into your embroidery machine.

You then need to scroll through your designs until you find the one you want, if you are like me you will have quite a few embroidery designs on your pen drive!

The mug rug

The mug rug is the easiest design to start with. It comes in three sizes, the finished dimensions being 5x7" 6x10" and 7x12 . The ones I have made for now are the smallest size but I intend making the larger ones too.

The mug rug requires only one hooping and it is completely finished requiring only a few centimetres of hand sewing to close where the mug rug is turned out the right way. It is a great design for anyone new to this type of embroidery

This is the design for the Mug Rug shown in the display on my embroidery machine. There are three different sizes so choose the one you want and prepare the hoop by inserting your tear away stabiliser Gunold

In addition to stabiliser each design needs cotton fabric which is widely available and you also need wadding Vilene Volume fleece but don't worry about ironing it on as it is not necessary for these designs

To start, prepare your fabric and lay it out so that you know which piece is which. The measurements for each size are given on the instructions. The beauty of these designs is that you can choose your own colours and personalise your designs to your own colour scheme.

Cut your wadding out to the measurements given .

On the instructions, every single step is explained very clearly and if by any chance you just cannot understand a step you can contact Sweet Pea via the website or Facebook and they will be happy to help.

This is the placement for the cupcake, I have already stitched the background strips in place.

The cupcake is built up layer by layer and you do need to take the hoop out and trim around the shapes as you attach them. This doesn't take long.

You will need a quality pair of Embroidery scissors to cut around the shapes close to the stitching. For larger areas Duckbill Applique scissors are extremely useful.

The design is progressing and it amazes me that the entire mat is completed without removing it from the hoop at all.

Even the backing is attached in the hoop by stitching it right side down on top of the design.

If you are concerned that the process of making these is difficult, then don't be. Your machine automatically takes you from one step to the next and tells you when to change thread.

Do use the colour of embroidery thread to match the area you are stitching, and not necessarily the colour shown on the machine display.

There are a lot of choices of embroidery thread, if you don't have any then I suggest starting with a box of assorted threads then you can add more colours as you need them Boxes of embroidery thread Madeira also have some beautiful metallic and variegated threads Madeira embroidery threads

I have now finished my mug rug and it has been taken out of the hoop. Remove your tearaway stabiliser and trim the wadding very close to the stitching line.

This is the inside of the mug rug, it needs to be turned right sides out.

You will find that when you are stitching a gap is left along one side which is

Used to turn the mat right sides out.

Trim the seam allowance and cut across the corners, leave a larger seam allowance at the gap to enable you to close the seam easily.

You will need a point turner or a chopstick to push the corners out.

Then simply press, handstitch the gap closed and press again. I guarantee that you will have hardly noticed time passing, this really is very absorbing work.

The Napkin holder

This comes in two sizes, 7"x 8•75" and 10•5" x 10•5"

Firstly cut your fabric and wadding out as before. Remember that you need two sides for the top and a larger piece for the back.

Follow the instructions as before. You will need to make two separate top pieces, and

you need your regular sewing machine to finish the napkin holder. Pin or clip the tops to the bottom, right sides out and matching your stitching lines carefully. Then machine stitch close to the edge all the way round.

I cut out a 3" wide piece of fabric more than long enough to fit around the outside. Pressing it in half wrong sides together.

Cutting measurements are given in the instructions.

The strip is stitched to the edges following the very easy to understand tutorial which forms part of the instructions. You do need to mitre the corners but this is explained very simply. You might find more easier to hand stitch the corners before stitching in the ditch after the binding has been folded to the back of your work.

So please don't worry about how you are going to apply the binding around the edge as there are step by step instructions to guide you, and the way it is explained is incredibly easy to follow. This is a copy of part of the instructions showing how to fold the binding.

The next thing I must do is to make and embroider my own napkins, but for now these paper ones will have to do.

The napkin holder can be used flat...

..... Or it is capable of standing when folded over .

The tea towel holder

Just one size for this, and I love it. There is even a ribbon hooped inside to drape your tea towel over.

This is so easy to make. The back is made first and then new fabric is put into the hoop to make the front.the linings are attached to both pieces.

The back and front are then stitched together with a piece of ribbon sandwiched between the front and back lining to hang your tea towel over.

It even sews a buttonhole so that the holder can be hung over the oven door handle.

The edge is bound in the same way as the napkin holder . You do not need to cut your binding for either piece on the bias as it is not going round any curves, so use the selvedge as a guide.

Fold it around your oven door handle to find the position for the button and sew it in place with button thread.

My collection so far

So, I made two mug rugs , one tea towel holder and a napkin holder. I am still making more mug rugs and some napkins and also some more of this collection for gifts. I also want to make the pot holders, then my kitchen is nicely kitted out.

They make superb gifts, and you know that nobody else will have one just the same .

If your friend has an embroidery machine the software itself will make a very welcome gift.

The potholder

If you intend making the potholder then you need to use a special heat proof wadding, Vilene Thermolam compressed fleece is ideal. Some of the heat proof waddings are very thin so I would use a double layer just to be on the safe side .

The basics are just the same as the mug rugs and tea towel holder, you build up each end of the pot holder bit by bit . The only difference is that a longer piece needs to be attached between them.

For some of the embroidery I chose to use some of these Variegated threads by Madeira they are so beautiful don't you think? They come in lots of colours . I also like these Potpourri by Madeira they have a subtle speckled effect.

There are other interesting threads, which I confess I have not tried yet, for example this one glows in the dark! Sulky Glowy embroidery thread .and this one looks fascinating Sulky Solar embroidery thread this changes colour in sunlight! Who said embroidery was boring!

The pieces which form the pockets to put your hands in are sewn on top of the base "sandwich" of two layers of fabric with the thermal wadding in between.

The edges then need to be trimmed ready for the binding.

The binding has been stitched onto the right side - don't worry there are step by step instructions - and I have mitred the corners ready for sewing.

I am also making another set as a gift for a friend. These are so pleasurable to make.

These are all the three designs available from Jaycotts. The price today for each design is £19•50 which is very reasonable. For that you get the embroidery software to download and comprehensive instructions to help you.

They are very very addictive so be warned! The machine really does all the work for you,. You just need to change thread and add various pieces of fabric and the design is sewn for you. Some basic hand sewing is needed to finish them off.

There is a huge choice of embroidery machines to consider and if you are considering one it is worth talking to the very friendly staff at Jaycotts who will help you to make the best choice for your needs.

Contact Jaycotts

For enquiries about any products - sewing and embroidery machines, haberdashery, patterns and anything else sewing related Contact Jaycotts via the online contact form by telephone or by calling into their Chester showroom.

The telephone number is 01244 394099

For sewing queries please contact me via the contact form on my blog or Jaycotts will pass a message on.

Lastly a huge thank you from me to everyone mentioned for including me in this very special event.

These are definitely not the last Sweet Pea designs I will be making

Angela

#sewangelicthreads

KNIT FABRIC DRESS

POSTED BY ALEX ON 17 OCT

This post is additional help for sewing with knits. Please look at my previous post where I talked about making Knit tops How to sew knit fabrics

This is a trapeze dress, so named because of its triangular shape. It can be unflattering so make sure that you wear it with heels and you will feel elegant in it not frumpy.

This time I am making a dress in a SCUBA fabric which is very easy to work with. You still need the same equipment as in the previous post, for example Stretch needles, Mettler thread and so on so do read the post.

Scuba fabric was born out of neoprane, the fabric which diving suits are made out of. It is a double knit fabric, made from polyester but there is usually some lycra or Spandex included in the fabric mix.

The fabric does not fray and some people don't bother to finish the seams but that would annoy me no end so I still overlock everything. It stretches well and has a good recovery. The downside is that it doesn't breathe and so can be hot to wear. It can be sewn up very quickly and is great for party dresses.

When stitching it use a ball point needle and a longer stitch than normal. I use a 4 or even a 4.5 at times.

The pattern I am using is one I have made before, it is the Grainline studios Farrow Dress and this is the link to that post.

This pattern is for anyone with some knowledge of sewing as it has several points which need matching up exactly. Any slight mis-matching might not be so obvious on a patterned fabric but would spoil a garment made in a plain fabric.

Continued .......

Whilst this pattern is not specifically designed for stretch fabrics it lends itself beautifully to them. What you cannot do is to use a woven fabric with a pattern designed specifically for stretch fabric. Some patterns designed for Knit fabrics use negative ease which means that the finished measurements are smaller than your body measurements, so if you used the wrong fabric the garment would not fit.

There are a lot of patterns for knits, just make sure that you read the back of the pattern envelope as it will tell you what type of fabric to use.

These are just two examples of dress patterns designed for stretch fabrics

Vogue V9199

Simplicity S8375

Other possibilities can be found on this link Knit dresses. As you can see there is a lot of choice.Knit garments often have no fastenings as they rely on stretch to get them over your head.

The bulk of the stretch needs to go across the body for that same reason so do make sure that your pattern pieces are positioned on the correct grain line.

You also need to let your garment hang for a day before you hem it as knit garments easily pull out of shape during construction.

The back of the pattern has a guide which shows you exactly how much the fabric needs to be able to stretch by in order for it to be suitable for the pattern. This is really important so take the pattern with you when shopping for your fabric so that you can test your fabric against the guide before you buy it.

Always tape the shoulder seams with Seam interfacing Iron some on along the edge of the shoulder on the front or back before sewing the seam. never put your garment onto a dressmakers dummy or coathanger until this has been done.

I also used the interfacing tape to strengthen and support the area where the decorative zip was inserted.

You need to transfer your pattern markings onto the fabric too- so do watch this video for some useful hints and tips. The link is My YouTube video about transferring pattern markings in case it does not open automatically.

Jaycotts sell a huge array of decorative and metal teeth zips and they are great for adding detail to an otherwise plain dress. Zips I particularly like the brass zips.

To insert an exposed zip stitch the back seam to the end of the zipper stopper - that's where the teeth end.

Press the seam open and finish the edges.

Snip triangles into the corners of your fabric and press the seam open adding seam tape to the bottom of the opening for strength. It is easier to see in this coloured fabric rather than the black.

Pin and tack the zipper so that the teeth just show and then machine stitch with your regular zipper foot close to the teeth.

This is such a simple way of adding a zip!

I don't rely on pins alone so I tack the zip in place as well, it is all to easy for the zip to become misaligned.

This is the zipper in place waiting for the facings to be stitched on.

Another option would be to add a decorative lace zip Decorative lace zip and to pick out the same colour in the facing.

This is a very simple looking elegant dress but there are plenty of other patterns for you to choose from . A black dress is useful in any wardrobe.

Thanks to Jaycotts for all your support and encouragement.

They can be contacted on 01244 394099 and via the contact form Contact Jaycotts by email

But you can also visit them to try out some of their marvelous machines, Visit Jaycotts

I hope that with these two posts you now feel more comfortable in sewing with knit and stretch fabrics.

Thank you for reading this

PS I never got to wear this dress, a friend saw a picture of it and claimed it! Hope she loves wearing it .

Best wishes

Angela

SEWING WITH STRETCH FABRICS

POSTED BY ALEX ON 17 SEP

Sewing with stretch fabrics, using the differential feed dial on your overlocker, and using a walking foot.

I have not covered how to sew with Knit and stretch fabrics for a while so I want to show you how I work with these sometimes tricky to sew fabrics.

There will be two garments in this post and another post will follow shortly. I also want to talk a little bit about overlockers and how to make the necessary adjustments to your settings for sewing lightweight knits

In the second half of the post I want to talk to you about the differential feed function on your overlocker if you have one.

I have chosen two patterns, one very easy, and one slightly more challenging. There are plenty of other patterns which use stretch fabrics and I will be making up some more shortly.

The fabric I used for the first top is a melange knit Melange stretch knit. I purchased this from Minerva Fabrics

The pattern is Butterick B5955. This pattern actually recommends light to medium weight woven fabrics but a lightweight knit like this one drapes beautifully. Whilst you can mostly substitute knit for woven it is not possible to do it the other way round.

If a pattern says that it is only suitable for knits then you cannot substitute a woven because the pattern will have been designed specifically for a fabric which stretches. But more about that when I discuss the next top.

You may be worried that you don't have the necessary equipment to be able to sew knit fabrics successfully. This is not true. All you need is a basic sewing machine which has a zig-zag stitch and a few simple additions and you are good to go.

You may on the other hand have a top end sewing machine which does all manner of stretch stitches. If you want to use one of these specialist stitches then practice on scraps of your cut-offs until you are happy with the result.

Did you know though that it is possible to sew knits with just a basic straight stitch? You cannot use an ordinary thread because it would just snap every time you stretched your garment, but guess what? This amazing Mettler Seraflock stretch thread will enable you to sew anything with no danger of the thread snapping. No wonder it is such a popular thread! It comes in lots of colours, the bobbins of thread seem to last forever and it is smooth to sew with. I love it!

I know I am always going on at you about changing your needle every time you start a new project, this time you need to use a stretch or jersey needle. There is a variety of needles suitable for stretch fabrics, they differ from normal needles in that they do not pierce the fibres of your fabric - they gently push them apart therefore there is less danger of the fabric laddering or of holes appearing. Needles for stretch fabrics

There is even a stretch twin needle which would make the most beautiful finish to hems etc.

You may fancy treating yourself to a new tool, I absolutely love this little gadget (top) it is a screwdriver like no other! It reaches all those awkward to reach screws and is great if your grip is not too great. Brother multi-purpose screwdriver

I am using it to attach my Walking foot They are available for most machines so do telephone Jaycotts and ask which is the best one for your machine.

The walking foot is a sewing machine foot that evenly feeds layers of through the machine while sewing. The foot grips onto the top layer of fabric and helps move it under the needle at the same pace that the machine's feed dogs are moving the bottom layer of fabric. It is useful when pattern matching as the walking action does not pull the layers out of alignment. It is great for knits because it feeds the fabric under the needle evenly without stretching the fabric out of shape.

I use mine a lot, it is even a fabulous choice for thick fabrics, making them easier to sew.

There will be fitting instructions with the walking foot relevant to your machine, so follow them carefully.

First, let’s go over what a walking foot looks like and how it functions. It is a bulky foot that looks intimidating compared to other sewing machine feet, but its mechanics are quite simple. The distinguishing feature is its set of teeth, which crank in a circular motion above and below the surface of the foot depending on the position of its side bar.

When attaching a walking foot to your machine, you must position this movable bar so it rests on top of your machine’s needle bar. As the needle moves up and down while you sew, the walking foot’s teeth will move correspondingly in sync with your machine’s feed dogs underneath the fabric.

It sounds complicated but like most things you need to see one in action if you are not sure call into Jaycotts for a demonstration.

This is my walking foot in place , my stretch needle and my stretch thread are all in place and I am ready to go.

By the way, Metler Seraflock is very fine and disappears into your seam when pressed so there is no need to colour match perfectly. Just use the nearest colour you can get.

Some seams need stabilising to stop them from stretching during wear. I am using

Seam tape interfacing along the front edge and the back neckline. Press it onto the wrong side of your fabric snipping it at intervals to help it to go around curves.

It really does help to keep the shape in your garment.

There is one thing you need to remember when using a walking foot and that is not to stitch backwards. So you need to disable any automatic functions at the start and end of seams which include back stitches. Instead start and end each seam with a tiny stitch - I am using 1•6 for only half an inch, increasing the stitch length to around 3•5 for normal sewing. The ends of the seams will be overlocked or zigzagged so they will not unravel.

The top is incredibly simple to put together and the instructions are very clear so there is little I can add to them.

You can see from this photograph that the seam tape is placed around the neckline. it will be hidden inside once the neckline is finished.

This is a very loose fitting top, I made the small size but I feel that the XS would have fit me equally well.

Do check your pattern for finished measurements as the ease will vary depending on the design and it may affect your size choice

I am wearing it with a vest top underneath as it is very low cut and being floaty and flowing it would prove draughty in the cooler weather - wonderful without the vest underneath on a hot day though!

I am pleased with this top. If you are new to sewing knits then this is a good pattern to start with.

Onto my next top. Whilst my sewing machine and overlocker are set up for sewing knits I am taking advantage of it and getting a few winter tops made.

This is a wonderful pattern from Vogue Vogue 9272 it has a lot of design features which make it very different from the rest. It is a bit more complicated than the previous top and you need some sewing experience.

The fabric is again a stretch knit, there is plenty of choice, these are just some Stretch knit fabric from Minerva the fabric I am using is very lightweight and has a wool content.

The pattern specifies a stretch knit and the pattern envelope has a guide on the side showing you how much your fabric needs to stretch. Do not use a woven fabric or you will not be able to get it on.

You also need to cut out your pattern pieces with the stretch going across your body.

The instruction sheet gives a body measurement chart - sometimes these are not terribly good, but this one will help you to chose your size accurately.

This pattern has a lot of elements which need matching accurately. So it is vitally important that all the pattern markings are transferred to your fabric.

My preferred method is by using tailors tacks which stay put until you remove them if you use the correct thread. Tacking thread is made from short fibres of cotton which makes the thread slightly rough. It therefore clings to your fabric until you remove it.

I really do find that this is the best and most efficient way of transferring pattern markings.

These are the tailors tacks marking the fold lines for the sleeves. They are easy to see and very accurate. Some people use marker pens but even the ones which claim to be removable by air or water can become permanent when ironed so use them with care.

The neckband needs interfacing to make it - not firmer as such - but more stable. Without it it would be a little to floppy and not hold its shape.

The type of interfacing you choose is important and in this case I needed a Lightweight stretch interfacing because it will move with the fabric and not add any bulk .

On both of these garments I used an overlocker to finish my seams. Don't worry if you do not have an overlocker because you could use an overedge foot on your regular sewing machine - ring Jaycotts if you don't have one. Otherwise a zigzag stitch will be fine.

I practised my overlocked edges first on spare fabric and you can see that the top sample has a lettuce leaf effect - which is fine if that is what you want , but I don't, I want a smooth finish to my seams.

Most modern overlockers have a differential feed dial. It is really helpful for getting the best finish on different fabrics.

Simply changing the differential feed will allow more or less fabric to be fed into the machine or more or less fabric to be fed out of the machine. It can be used to eliminate excess gathering as in my sample or it can be used to create gathers where required. Most people do not use this dial but you should! Don't be afraid of experimenting with your machine, no matter what type it is, you will be surprised at what your machine can do. Don't be frightened of trying new settings, you are not likely to damage the machine.

The numbers on the differential feed dial show the ratio of speeds between the front and back teeth on the feed dogs, but really all you need to know that the dial is normally set at Zero and when stretch fabric is being sewn the edge may be wavy like mine was , so to counteract this all you do is to increase the dial from 1 to 2 which will give you a smooth finish -which is what I wanted to achieve.

There is a lot more information in your machine manual.

I joined the front and back at the shoulders and joined one set of neck facings together. Then I stitched the facing to the neck and pressed the seam upwards.

Then I stitched the neckband facing in place along the top edge. Clipped the curves and pressed the seam towards the facing. I then understched the seam onto the facing to keep the neckband in shape.

I then overlocked the edge of the facing and pressed it again, pinning it to the neckband seam.

Stitch " in the ditch" making sure that the facing is caught down.

It is important to press every stage.

The design has two pleats on the neckband which I marked with tailors tacks. Fold them as explained in the instructions and machine stitch across them about 1/2" down from the top making the stitching the same width on both pleats. Press.

The design has a Godet at each side. To hem them you can use the differential feed on your overlocker again.

This time we want to create a gathered edge so that the curved hem will sit neatly.

I changed the dial to just less than minus 1 which had the effect of gathering the hem just enough to make it fold over to the wrong side very neatly.

I then pressed the hems and top stitched close to the edge .

Following the pattern instructions - not forgetting to alter your overlocker settings again - insert the Godet on both sides, stitch the side seams and stitch the pleat in the Godet. All that remains is to insert the sleeves.

I really like this top, it is just that bit different and there are some lovely designer touches.

I hope that you will make a knit top for yourself - all you need is practice. Choose a simple pattern to start with and a fabric which has a two way stretch so that it is more manageable.

Some stretch fabrics have a four way stretch which means that they stretch up and down the length as well as across the width. For this pattern you only need a moderately stretch fabric which stretches across the width. You will find this fabric easier to sew until you gain in experience.

The machines and accessories used in this post were as always obtained from Jaycotts.

You can also visit them - do look at the virtual tour of the store Visit Jaycotts where you will also find driving instructions.

Please let me know if you found this post useful.

Best wishes

Angela

SEW JUMPSUIT FOR ALL LEVELS OF ABILITY

POSTED BY ALEX ON 23 AUG

Jumpsuits do not show any sign of going out of fashion, and no wonder as they can be smart or casual or somewhere in between. They can take you anywhere and come into their own on holiday for day or evening. They are so comfortable!

The pattern I chose is Simplicity 8178 I chose it because it is suitable even for sewing newbies as it has minimal pieces and does not have any fastenings - so no zipper or buttonholes to worry about.

There is a choice between straight and flared legs, I chose the wider flared leg.

I chose a floral crepe fabric for the main garment and plain crepe for the jacket, both widely available.

This particular fabric is rather busy! More suited to holiday wear I feel. A chambray or a linen would be good fabric choices, the pattern also suggests sateen which would be lovely and Ponte Roma but if you choose this then make sure it is not too heavy and that it has a good drape.

Wash, dry and press your fabric before cutting out as a lot of fabrics shrink.

If ever you want to use a fabric such as wool for a coat or jacket then don't wash it, when I come to do my next coat blog I will show you how to shrink fabric without washing it.

If you are new to sewing then you may not understand the sizing. Pattern sizes are not the same as your commercial dress size, usually commercial garments are "vanity" sized and as you know the fit varies a lot from store to store.

So the first thing you need to do is to take your measurements and compare them to the measurements on the back of the pattern.

You may find that your top and bottom are different sizes but that doesn't matter as it is easy to cut out the top in one size and the bottom in another and merge the two sizes together at the waist.

Inside the pattern you will find a paper guide giving all the instructions needed to construct the garment and the cutting layouts. These are important so keep the instructions handy, I have clips attached to a wall in my sewing room where I put my instructions so that they are easy to refer to.

On the major pattern pieces you will find additional sizing information and the finished garment measurements. Use this together with the size guide printed on the back of the envelope to determine which size you need to cut out.

Ease can vary from garment to garment, for example a shift dress may have very little ease whereas a coat may have several inches. Some stretch garments may have negative ease, which means that the pattern pieces are smaller than your measurements.

If in any doubt whatsoever always cut out the larger size as it is easy to take a garment in if it is too big, but not so easy to out right if it is too small.

You wil see that each pattern piece has a Grainline. This is the direction which the pattern needs to sit on the fabric. If you fold the selvedge edge to edge and pin it together the the threads travelling up along the fabric are the straight grain. Measure each end of the Grainline arrow on the pattern piece and pin it in position with these two measurements exactly equal. I am measuring from the fold. If you don't do this then your pattern piece will be off-grain and will not sit straight, ever.

Some pattern pieces need to be cut on the bias as cutting diagonally across the grain is what gives then stretch. This is necessary when adding bands to a curved neckband for example

The direction of the grain is clearly marked on the pattern piece.

If you measure your legs and arms and you compare them to the pattern and find out that they are the wrong length it is better to alter the pattern now. To shorten sleeves or legs put a tuck in the pattern at the lines marked lengthen or shorten here if the pattern is too short then cut all along the lines and insert a piece of tissue paper to lengthen the pattern. Usually if you make length adjustments at the bottom of the pattern you will lose shaping and the garments edges will almost always turn out too wide, so it is definitely worth using the correct alteration process.

A tip. It is easy to miss a pattern piece out when cutting out, or you may need a small piece of your fabric to test a buttonhole on etc so I put all my scraps of tissue and fabric into a bin and only throw them away when the garment is finished and I am certain I no longer need them.

To make it easier to put the garment together you need to transfer every marking on the pattern onto the fabric.

Notches should be cut outwards never snip into the fabric seam lines in case you need to let the seam out.

On heavy fabrics Dressmakers carbon paper and a TRACING WHEEL can be used as the markings will not show through to the right side of the fabric.

My preferred method is good old Tailors Tacks. If you use a good quality Tacking thread the stitches will stay put until you remove them. Tacking thread is made from short fibres of cotton so it has a rough feel to it and it really does grip the fabric.

You may also wish to use Chalk to join the tailors Tacks or to mark the front and back of your fabric and for many more things. I like chalk as opposed to marker pens as it comes off easily, you need to be so very careful with Marker pens as even ones which disappear in the air or with water can easily become permanent on some fabrics, especially if you iron the marks. They do have their uses though. I think the sensible thing to do is to have a selection and try them out on a spare piece of fabric before deciding on the right one for your project.

This is what I meant by cutting notches outwards and not just snipping info the fabric at the little triangles.

My fabric frays badly so I don't want to risk any weak points fraying and coming apart during wear by snipping into the seam allowances.

The front edge of the jumpsuit top is cut on the bias and will stretch so it needs to be stabilized. To do this use Iron on seam tape interfacing ,I am also using it on the back neckline . This will stop the edges from stretching out of shape.

This is the seam tape in place. Clip it as necessary to make it fit the curve.

Stitch the shoulders together, tack the side seams and try it on for fit.

Then take the neckband and press it in half wrong sides together and pin and stitch it to the neckline, right sides together.

Press, then turn the band to the inside and top stitch in place

Do the same with the armholes

Matching up the centre front tacking or chalk marks tack ( baste) the lower edges together.

Make up the trousers, I omitted the pockets but that is personal choice. The instructions in the pattern are easy to follow so I doubt that you will have a problem.

Join the top to the pants and following the instructions make a casing for the elastic.

Make sure that the elastic is comfortable before you close the gap in the facing.

This is my finished suit. I made a narrow tie belt to cover the elastic waist. Do make sure that this garment is not over fitted as you will have problems getting in and out of it if you do!

I added a metal popper on the front for decency. Or you could use a normal press stud. Press stud fasteners

Before stitching the hem decide on which type of shoes you will wear it with. I decided that my wedge sandals and trainers are the same height so I hemmed mine to suit both, but if you want to wear heels with yours you may need to have the length a bit longer and for flip-flops maybe shorter.

The Jacket.

I did make the jacket, but I doubt that I will wear the two garments together - it's rather busy I feel. For me anyway.

I made a navy dress and had a small piece of the fabric left to make a jacket with, but there was not quite enough fabric to cut every pattern piece out. I therefore cut the facing out in my floral fabric.

The front facings need to be interfaced. Choose your interfacing to suit your fabric weight but always choose a good quality

For my fabric I would choose a standard or soft medium weight iron on interfacing , but there are lots to choose from to give the front jacket some stability Iron on interfacings

Press it on rather than iron it on, by that I mean keep lifting your iron and don't slide it over the interfacing, and don't have your iron too hot or it will melt.

The only bit of the pattern which you may possibly need to think about what you are doing is constructing the integral facing and collar, but it's not difficult.

I found it easier to stitch the back section first then the sides rather than stitch the seam in one operation.

You now should have this.

Clip into the neckline seam to enable it to turn out correctly. Use a Pressing cloth to avoid marking your fabric, which is easily done if your iron is too hot for the fabric.

Pin the facing over the front jacket and pin and stitch in place. Cut out the triangle to make the notch in the front and clip all curves and corners.

Turn the facing to the inside and press the seams open - a Sleeve pressing roll makes this easier.

I tacked the facing down to hold it in place and gave it a good press with my pressing cloth.

Once you have got this far follow the pattern instructions and insert the sleeves and stitch the lower hem - it's easy I promise you!

This is my finished jacket which is really lovely. It could be worn with my jumpsuit but I like it with a plain have dress and it also dresses my jeans up.

I am planning on buying another length of navy fabric and making a new jacket to wear with my jumpsuit , with no contrast facings.

I am thoroughly delighted in his these garments have turned out. They are both so comfortable to wear and I know that they will integrate into my wardrobe nicely. The fabric hardly creases and if it does crease a little bit the pattern is so busy that any wrinkles will not be noticed

I really love this without the jacket - I feel a holiday coming on so I can wear it!

I do hope that you will make this lovely outfit, it is not at all difficult but if you do struggle then use the contact form on my own blog or send a message through Jaycotts and I will get back to you.

If you do not like this pattern then Simplicity 1355 is similar , very easy to sew and has different neckline options.

The other pattern New Look 6446 is more fitted, it has a close fit bodice and a centre back zip, this is the pattern I will be making up next.

Thank you to Jaycotts for all your support .

Contact Jaycotts

All the items I use on my blog can be obtained from Jaycotts ,Contact them on 01244 394099

The address is on this page Jaycotts contact details where you can also have a virtual tour of the showroom.

Do telephone them for more information on any of their products and if you go to the home page you can sign up for emails and be the first to hear of new products, special offers and read my latest blog post.

Thank you for reading this, and thank you for the lovely comments you leave for me, they are very much appreciated.

Angela

#sewangelicthreads, #jaycotts #sewing, #sewingnewbie, #sewingblogger, #jumpsuit, #jacket, #simplicity8178

BAGS OF STYLE!

POSTED BY ANGELA ON 29 JUN

A post all about bags and what you need to make them.

It's not difficult to make your own bags, in fact they are one of my favourite things to make. I use them myself and give them as gifts. Quite often I am out with one and I end up giving it away and then I have to go home and make myself a replacement!

I sometimes make one to match an outfit or for a specific purpose, such as a beach bag,and I have shopping bags everywhere!

The other great thing is that once you have a few basic supplies you can use up odds and ends of fabrics which you would otherwise not have a use for. It's all win-win!

This is one I finished last night, it's a saddle bag and I made it from remnants of tweed fabrics.

This is a special bag which I made for my school bestie Margaret for her birthday. I was in such a rush to finish it and post it that I didn't take many photographs of it before it went off to Devon!

My friend Melanie bought me this book for my birthday and I was itching to copy some of the fabulous bags. It is a great book as everything is explained in great detail and options given to make the bag purely yours. There are lots of ideas for trims and embellishments too.

There are however dozens of great bag patterns from almost every sewing pattern company, these are just some from my stash. Many dress patterns come with a bag pattern too.

If you take a look here, Bags and accessories you will find a huge selection of bag patterns from clutch bags, tote bags, handbags and lots more in between. Think about what you would like to make and buy a pattern. As you become proficient in bag making - and you will because it is addictive - you will find that you don't need a pattern at all, just an idea.

For Margaret's bag I chose the Claudia bag from the book. Of course you do not have to use the fabrics suggested, you can use whatever you like which is of a suitable weight. My main fabric for this was denim.

I wanted to include some fabric which has been in her family for as long as we can remember so I used it for the bag and pocket linings. It brings back lovely memories for her everytime she looks inside.

All bag patterns explain what fabric you need and usually you can use your leftover scraps from other projects, or fat quarters, as they really don't need much fabric. You could also use smaller pieces to make a patchwork bag.

The bag has an external zipped pocket, don't be afraid of this as they are far easier to insert than a dress zip! Use a plastic zip or a special bag zip .

Place the right side of the pocket to the right side of the bag, centering it exactly.

Then follow your bag instructions and measure where the zip is going to be placed, marking it with a water erasable or vanishing ink marker pen. Marker pens

Trim your zip to the correct size if necessary and stitch across the end of the teeth if you have shortened it, and also stitch the top tapes together

Machine stitch around the outside of the markings and carefully cut along the centre line and corners taking care not to snip your stitches.

Then "post" the lining through the hole, straighten it all out and give it a good press. This is your zip opening.

Use some Prym wonder tape to stick the zip on the reverse of the bag, centering the teeth and making sure that it lines up as perfectly as possible.

Prym wonder tape is one of my favourite products. It is a double sided sticky tape which holds all sorts of fabrics together whilst you sew them and is especially useful when inserting zips. Zips for bags

This is the back of the pocket with the zipper stitched in place.

And this is the front. Beautiful!

Don't worry about the lack of instructions here on this post because whatever pattern you choose comes with all the instructions you need.

The back of the pocket bag has been stitched down the sides. Go over your stitching again for strength and if your fabric frays a lot then use your overlocker too.

I'm now making the tab with which to close the front patch pocket. You will need to line this - and the bag itself , with a specialist interlining. I used Fusible volume fleece but there are others such as Decovil depending on the finish you require.

The finished tab is stitched between the lower and upper bag front.

Another product which I absolutely love are these fabulous colorful poppers from Prym. This Colour snap kit represents great value for money or you can purchase individual packs in a variety of shapes and colours. Just look at these Various snaps there is every colour you can imagine, including packs of mixed colours. They are much easier to insert that the metal ones too and much more fun in my opinion.

You will need a pair of plyers Prym Vario plyers to use to insert them. These snaps are great for all sorts of garments where otherwise you would need a button and buttonhole.( Think blouses!)

The poppers are extremely easy to put on just remember to put them in place as you go along otherwise you may struggle to fit the plyers over large areas of fabric.

This is the closing for the patch pocket. The pocket is two rectangles of fabric, one layer of volume fleece, sewn together, leaving an opening at the bottom to turn the pocket the right way out.

Press and sew in place.

On any bag if you wish to create a base then simply cut two-inch squares from the corners of the bottom of the bag.

Bring the side and lower seams together and stitch across, matching the seams. I glued some extra decovil on the base to keep it firm.

Make the lining in the same way. Using the made up front and backs as a template.

You can add zippered or patch pockets if you want them.

There are various ways to make the handle. This is where you decide how long you want the handle to be. Do you want a shoulder bag, a cross body bag or a handbag?. You decide. Try a few lengths out and see what works best for you.

To make the straps I actually use waistband facing Folda-band is perfect for this. Simply iron it on the reverse side of the fabric and using the perforations fold the edges in and then fold it down the middle . Stitch close to the edge along both long sides.

You may want to attach your handle with hardware - these Handle loops look great

Or you may want to use a ready made handle , for example Bag handle handles can be in leather or chain or plastic. Take a look at the Bag handles available at Jaycotts.

Pin and sew your finished handles to the sides on the outside of the bag.

Make up the lining but leave a large opening at the side or bottom to enable you to pull the entire bag through to the right side.

Put the bag inside the lining, right sides together and sew along the top edge.

Pull the whole lot though the opening in the lining and then either machine or hand stitch the gap closed. It will be hidden on the inside of the bag and won't be seen.

I inserted a ribbon with a key ring on the end before stitching the top. I added a fun charm as I knew Margaret would love it. An empty key ring is always useful I find - no more hunting for keys!

I added another popper to close the bag at the top.

This is the finished bag,pressed and ready to be posted. As I said earlier though I wasn't so much of a rush that I forgot to photograph the front with the pocket.

For the next bag I wanted to use up all the short lengths of tweed fabric I have in my stash. I chose colours which complemented each other.

For this bag it was necessary to make a template. The full pattern for this bag is included in the book. You will find similar patterns in the Jaycotts collection. I

had just about enough fabrics to cut the basic bag out, but not enough for the curved additions at the bottom of the front and back. Not that it matters because the bag looks great without.

This fabric frays so it is important to cut plenty of seam allowances and sew large seams.

This is the fusible volume fleece in place.

The pattern suggested an external zip similar to the previous bag, but because of the way my fabric frays I decided to add a pocket between the top and bottom sections of the front, to be hidden under the flap.

This is the pocket section being sewn onto the lower part of the bag. It is not clear here but I did interface the pocket with normal medium weight interfacing.

Once the sections are brought together the pocket will sit neatly inside.

The other end of the pocket is sewn onto the top section

Once the bank front has been pressed you can hardly see the pocket. I added a popper at this stage to keep it closed.

This pattern has a gusset so once the fusible fleece has been ironed on pin and then stitch the gusset onto the front. Stitch as close to the fleece as possible.

Don't be same with the back.

This is the basic shell of the bag.

To make the pocket flap I interfaced both the front and the back pieces with a Woven iron on interfacing .this will give structure to the flap whilst still allowing it to remain flexible.

Top stitch the outside of the flap then sew it to the back of the bag right sides together

Cut out the lining. I added lined patch pockets which I stitched down the centre as two smaller pockets are more useful. But you can make your pockets to suit your own needs

Stitch the lining together but leave a large gap at the bottom of one of the sides.

Make the handle as in the previous bag and attach them to the sides.

Pull the bag through, turning it right sides out and stitch the gap closed. Press all the seams using a sleeve board.

Add a trim along the front top edge if you like.

To close my bag I chose a sew in clasp. Tuck Lock .there are other choices of fastenings available at Jaycotts, in fact they have a huge selection of bag making supplies and you will find patterns, handles and hardware etc on their website or in store Bag making supplies

The nicest thing about bag making is that once you understand the basics you can make them whatever size you want, in whatever fabric you want - there are no restrictions. You can embroidery them, applique them, make them out of faux leather or basically anything. I would steer clear of stretch fabrics though for obvious reasons.

I hope that you are tempted to make your first bag, so go to the bag making supplies on the link above and choose your pattern and hardware. The interfacing requirements are on the back of the pattern envelope, if you struggle, then Jaycotts will be happy to help so give them a call.

I usually get my fabrics from MinervaCrafts, but you will have your own preferences. Fat quarter bundles of craft fabric would be ideal, or what about cork or bamboo fabrics? They can be purchased here Craft fabrics

Maybe a fabric bundle would be ideal for you to get started? Fabric bundle

If you have fabric left over from your recent project then why not make a matching tote as I did?

Don't just stop at handbags and tote bags, why not make lap top, mobile phone or glasses cases? This tablet case was made using English Paper piecing.

For more ideas and instructions please read my previous bag blog and learn how to make simple tote bags - we all need them for shopping now, also included is the large red bag.

How to sew very easy tote and shopping bags

Thank you for reading this post. Bag making is extremely enjoyable and can be as simple or challenging as you like. It is also a great way to use up your scraps of fabric or to find a beautiful way of using a piece of fabric which holds special memories.

Thank you

Angela

MAKING AN 'AMAZING FIT DRESS' FROM SIMPLICITY

POSTED BY ANGELA ON 11 JUN

Simplicity 8543 Amazing Fit Dress

This is a Simplicity Amazing Fit Dress if you have not made an Amazing Fit pattern before then you should.

This pattern has a choice of sleeves, a shaped midriff and a flattering neckline.

More importantly it has many different size variations within the pattern.

It comes in two choices of size ranges, 10-18 and 20-28.

The princess seams are very flattering for any figure and you have the option of sleeveless or a short sleeve - with or without a flounce.

The pattern gives comprehensive instructions on how the finished dress should look on your body, so I do suggest reading the pattern thoroughly before you get your scissors out!

The pattern has a very good guide on how to choose your correct pattern size and how to take your measurements.

There are separate pattern pieces for A to DD on the pattern size I chose which is the option for sizes 10-18. And there are also separate pattern pieces for slim, Average and Curvy fit.

Once you have determined your correct size - don't just guess - cut out the pieces you need. There are plenty of fitting variations within the pattern.

I took my measurements and determined that I am a size 10, C cup, average fit. I found out later that this was too big, but more about that later.

Instead of jumping right in the pattern instructions suggest that a toile is made. Not wanting to cut my pattern at this stage in case I needed to alter it I made a copy using

Tracing Paper a ruler and Pattern Weights

I took a piece of fabric which I didn't want and cut the pattern out. I did not cut out facings or sleeve flounce as they are not needed for a toille. The idea of making a toile or test garment is to just tack together the main pieces for fitting purposes.

I really do feel that this is a very important stage and should not be missed out. It really is worth the extra effort.

You can either hand tack the pieces together or do as I did and use the Basting Stitch on my sewing machine

The manual gave me the correct settings and it was quick and easy to put the garment together this way.

My sewing machine is the amazing Brother Innov-is 1300 and I love it. I wrote a review about it if you would like to read it. Review of the Brother Innov-is 1300 it isn't machine I would certainly recommend to anybody. If you are interested then give Jaycotts a ring and have a chat about it.

The machine is so easy to use. The large LCD touch screen shows the selected stitch, the foot you should use and options for stitch length, width and tension.

This is the toile of the bodice. Hmm, in true Angela style it is far too big!

The reason I am having a situation with sizing at the moment is that I changed my diet to eating healthy food. The result of that is that I have dropped two dress sizes. I didn't intend losing weight, it just happened. Unfortunately ( or fortunately depending on what I am making) I was trained as a Tailor and it was drummed into me to always cut larger seam allowances, so " just to be on the safe side" I always add extra wriggle room when I am cutting out. I wish I wouldn't! I wish I would trust my measurements!

Also this pattern has a large seam allowance in key areas of 1" - almost twice the usual seam allowance of 5/8" . Plus it has a large amount of ease.

The result was that it didn't fit me anywhere at all!

So, back to the drawing board. I made three test garments in all and ended up with a much smaller size. I remembered to tack each stage and try it on for fit as I went along.

The fabric I chose is a pure linen which frays notoriously and I did not want any strain at the seams or the seam would disintegrate with wear, so I did not make it too close fitting.

Had I chosen a cotton fabric instead I would have made the skirt closer fitting.

The fabric looks similar on the right and wrong sides so to make sewing the garment easier I used a cross in ordinary Tailors chalk on the wrong side of each piece.

Make the garment in stages, first the front bodice, attach the front skirt then do the same for the back.

The midriff panel called out for a touch of embroidery - any excuse to use my Brother Innov-is 800e embroidery machine.

I chose a very simple design which I have actually used before. The machine has many designs already built in, but there are plenty to download off the internet and many are free.

Jaycotts do stock some embroidery designs so please telephone for more details. They also sell a wide range of stabilisers and accessories.

The stabiliser I used is Film-O-plast. This is a self adhesive stabiliser which is very useful when the fabric you want to embroider is slightly smaller than the hoop you need to use. Do make sure that the fabric is very secure though because if it moves around your design will pucker.

I absolutely love this Multi purpose screwdriver it actually revolutionised my embroidery as it is now very easy to tighten the screw on the hoop which makes for much better embroidery. If you have a Brother machine please seriously consider buying one - they are worth every penny.

If you didn't want to embroider the midfriff then consider piping at the top and bottom edge or even using a contrast fabric.

This is my dress front sewn, all seams neatened and pressed.

There is a pleat in the back which I neatened with a double folded hem. Tack the back together .

At this stage I tacked the rest of the dress together for another fitting. I do confess again that it was still too large so I was glad that I had given myself the opportunity of making some more adjustments now before it was machined together

I also found that the back was a bit too loose, but be careful how much you take the dress in on the bodice because you do need wearing ease so that you can move your arms about. Also check that you can sit down comfortably.

Slight ( big!) adjustments made, I stitched the back dress together and inserted a zip. Either insert a regular zip or an invisible zipper, Dress Zips which ever is your preference.

Jaycotts have the best selection of zips at the best prices I know, so they are my number one choice for any type of zip.

I wanted to add the sleeve flounce but thought better of it in the end because my fabric creases so much and it wouldn't look too great if I was wearing a jacket over the top and wanted to take it off.

So I thought that I would make a double hem and add an embellishment.

My sewing machine has 182 built in stitches, but don't just take my word for it, read my review and then call in at Jaycotts to try one for yourself, you will be amazed.

The square feed drive system means that it can stitch extra wide decorative stitches, and it was one of these I chose to edge my sleeves.

You need to change your foot to the ( included) monogram foot . This has extra room to accommodate the needle movement and allows you to see what you are doing easily.

It might seem odd at first using one of these extra wide stitches so do practise before putting it on your actual garment.

I quickly discovered that the decorative stitch was perfectly placed if I aligned the foot to the edge of the sleeve when the needle was at its furthest point to the right. It does move around a bit. Once you have seen the machine sew this type of stitch you will easily see what I mean.

The facings are next. Do clip into the centre front down to but not through the stitching and clip the curves too

Press the seam open and then press the facing to the inside. The pattern instructions are very clear on what to do.

Do keep trying your dress on, it is the only way to get a perfect fit.

I wanted to hold the facing in place but I did not want any topstitching to show on the right side.

The answer is to understitch the facing to the seam allowance. The arrow on the above picture shows the understitching on the inside but not on the outside. Again, the pattern explains exactly how to understitch.

The bodice looks very neat, the seams are all perfectly matched and it fits well.

I finished my hem with a double hem just like I finished the sleeve hem.

This is a lovely pattern, it teaches you the correct way to achieve a garment which fits perfectly every time. The skills learned can now be used every time you sew something and it will always fit perfectly.

For information on any of the products featured, or to place your order or for more details of the fabulous range of machines give them a ring during opening hours on 01244 394099

Alternatively use the contact form Contact Jaycotts

Thank you for reading this post, I would appreciate your feedback.

Angela

SAY HELLO TO THE NEW GIRL!

POSTED BY ALEX ON 07 JUN

We are delighted to have Christi join the Jaycotts team!

Bringing along her sewing knowledge, skills and experience. Some of you may have already recognised her which is great because you already know what an asset she is. Christi has been teaching sewing since 2012 through her own sewing courses and workshops in North Wales. (She’s been sewing for more years than she is willing to admit !)

Christi will be happy to offer advice and demo's on a variety of machines, and chat about the latest sewing tools, sewing patterns etc. and will also be available to answer quick sewing queries (time and demand permitting).

Through having Christi as part of our team, Jaycotts will be providing opportunities for you to increase your sewing knowledge through our own taught sessions. These are currently in the planning stage so keep your eye on our newsletters, website and our facebook and twitter for details, and if you are in the area, do call in to say hello !

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Sewing with stretch fabrics, using the differential feed dial on your overlocker, and using a walking foot.

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Simplicity 8543 Amazing Fit Dress

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