Sewing Pattern Alterations: Tips for a Perfect Fit

Achieving the perfect fit in your sewing projects can elevate your handmade garments from amateur to professional. Here are some essential tips and tricks from the team at Jaycotts to ensure you always get a flawless fit from your sewing patterns.

Understanding Your Measurements

Before you start any pattern alterations, it's crucial to have accurate body measurements. Here’s how you can do it:

1. Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your bust.
2. Waist: Measure around the narrowest part of your waist.
3. Hips: Measure around the fullest part of your hips.
4. Back Waist Length: Measure from the nape of your neck to your natural waistline.

Write down these measurements and compare them to the sewing pattern’s size chart.

Common Pattern Alterations

1. Lengthening or Shortening: Patterns are usually designed for a standard height. If you're taller or shorter, you'll need to adjust the length.
• To Lengthen: Cut the pattern along the lengthen/shorten line and spread it apart the desired amount. Add paper to fill the gap and tape it in place.
• To Shorten: Fold the pattern along the lengthen/shorten line to remove the excess length and tape it down.
2. Adjusting the Bust: A common alteration is the Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) or Small Bust Adjustment (SBA).
• FBA: Slash the pattern and spread it to add width and length to accommodate a fuller bust.
• SBA: Slash the pattern and overlap to reduce the bust area.
3. Adjusting the Waist: If your waist measurement differs significantly from the pattern, you can alter the side seams.
• To Increase Waist: Add width by extending the side seams.
• To Decrease Waist: Take in the side seams.
4. Hip Adjustments: Altering the hip area can make a big difference in the fit of skirts and pants.
• To Increase Hip: Extend the side seams or add width at the hip line.
• To Decrease Hip: Take in the side seams around the hip area.

Fitting Techniques

1. Muslin Mock-Up: Before cutting into your final fabric, make a mock-up of your garment using muslin or a similar inexpensive fabric. This allows you to test the fit and make any necessary adjustments.
2. Pin Fitting: After making initial alterations, pin the pattern pieces together and try them on. This helps you see how the garment will fit and if further adjustments are needed.
3. Pattern Tracing: Instead of cutting the original pattern, trace it onto pattern paper. This keeps your original pattern intact and allows for multiple attempts at alterations.

Essential Tools for Pattern Alterations

• Pattern Paper: For tracing and making adjustments.
• Ruler and Measuring Tape: For accurate measurements and straight lines.
• Pattern Weights and Pins: To hold your pattern pieces in place.
• Scissors and Rotary Cutter: For precise cutting.
• Tape: For securing alterations.

Final Tips for a Perfect Fit

• Ease: Remember to consider wearing ease (extra space for comfort) and design ease (extra space for style) when making alterations.
• Check Grainlines: Ensure that any alterations do not disturb the grainlines, which can affect how the fabric hangs.
• Seam Allowances: Maintain consistent seam allowances to avoid fitting issues.
• Test and Adjust: Continuously test the fit at various stages of construction and make adjustments as needed.

By following these tips for sewing pattern alterations, you can achieve a custom fit that enhances the look and feel of your handmade garments.

If you're just staring out then have a look at an easier pattern to sew like our Easy To Sew range here.  Happy sewing!