Interfacing: What are the main types and where should I use them?

When you’re sewing a garment or any fabric-based project, there’s an unsung hero that can transform your work from "homemade" to "handmade": interfacing. Whether you’re working on garments or accessories interfacing is one of the key factors in providing structure, stability, and durability to your sewing creations.

In this blog post, we’ll explore why you should use interfacing, when it’s necessary, and what types of interfacing are available to ensure your sewing projects are a success.

What is Interfacing?

Interfacing is a fabric or material used to reinforce and add structure to specific parts of a garment or project. It is often used in areas like collars, cuffs, waistbands, and button plackets to prevent fabric from stretching or losing its shape. Interfacing can be fused to the fabric with heat (fusible interfacing) or sewn in (sew-in interfacing), depending on the project and fabric type. 

Why Use Interfacing?

1. Provides Structure: Interfacing gives fabric more body, making it ideal for structured designs such as collars, cuffs, and waistbands that need to retain a crisp, clean look.

2. Prevents Fabric Stretching: Lightweight and delicate fabrics, such as silk or jersey, can stretch over time. Interfacing reinforces these areas, preventing them from becoming misshapen with wear or washing.

3. Improves Durability: Interfacing can strengthen areas that undergo a lot of wear and tear, such as buttonholes, pockets, or seams, making your project more durable.

4. Gives a Professional Finish: Interfacing adds a polished, professional touch to your creations, allowing the fabric to hold its intended shape without sagging or wrinkling.

When to Use Interfacing

Knowing when to use interfacing is key to achieving the best results in your sewing projects. Here are some common scenarios where interfacing is necessary:

• Collars and Cuffs: These areas need to hold their shape and withstand frequent movement, which makes interfacing essential.
• Buttonholes and Button Plackets: Reinforcing these areas with interfacing prevents the fabric from stretching, making it easier to sew clean, durable buttonholes.
• Waistbands and Facings: Interfacing provides the necessary stiffness to waistbands and facings, ensuring that they don’t roll or stretch out over time.
• Bags and Purses: If you’re creating accessories like bags or purses, interfacing gives them the structure to stand upright and hold their shape, even when filled.
• Craft Projects: Many fabric-based craft projects, such as fabric bowls, hats, or even quilts, often require interfacing to give the finished product a more substantial feel.

Types of Interfacing

Interfacing comes in different weights, types, and application methods. Choosing the right one depends on the fabric and the purpose of your project.

Fusible Interfacing

Fusible interfacing has an adhesive on one side that activates with heat, bonding it to your fabric when you apply an iron. It’s quick and easy to use, making it the most popular choice for many projects.

• When to use it: Fusible interfacing is great for most fabrics, as long as they can handle heat. Use it for collars, cuffs, waistbands, and buttonholes. Always test it on a fabric scrap first, as heat-sensitive fabrics (like some silks and synthetics) may not react well to fusible interfacing.

• Available weights: Light, medium, and heavy. Choose a weight that matches the thickness and drape of your fabric. For lightweight fabrics like cotton, use lightweight interfacing, while heavier fabrics like denim may require medium to heavy interfacing.

Sew-In Interfacing

As the name suggests, sew-in interfacing needs to be stitched into the fabric rather than fused with heat. This type of interfacing is often used for fabrics that can’t handle heat or projects where you want more flexibility and a softer drape.

• When to use it: Sew-in interfacing is ideal for heat-sensitive fabrics (like velvet, lace, and some synthetics) or when you want to maintain a more natural, flexible drape. It’s often used in craft projects, home decor items, or when working with delicate fabrics.

• Available weights: Like fusible interfacing, sew-in interfacing comes in light, medium, and heavy weights. Choose the right weight based on your fabric and project needs.

Woven Interfacing

Woven interfacing is made from woven fibers and behaves more like fabric. It’s a great choice when you want the interfacing to blend seamlessly with the natural movement of your fabric.

• When to use it: Woven interfacing is perfect for garments that require a lot of movement or stretch, such as jackets or dresses. It’s commonly used with woven fabrics like cotton and linen, as it mirrors their flexibility and feel.

Non-Woven Interfacing

Non-woven interfacing is made from fibers that are bonded together but not woven, giving it a paper-like texture. This type of interfacing doesn’t have a grainline, so it can be cut in any direction.

• When to use it: Non-woven interfacing is versatile and can be used for both garments and crafts. It’s especially useful when the direction of the fabric grain doesn’t matter. However, it can be stiffer than woven interfacing and may not drape as naturally.

Knit Interfacing

Knit interfacing is a stretchy, flexible interfacing designed for knit fabrics. It moves with the fabric, making it perfect for stretch garments like t-shirts, leggings, or sportswear.

• When to use it: If you’re sewing with knit fabrics, knit interfacing is the best option to maintain the fabric’s stretch and flexibility while still providing reinforcement.

Specialty Interfacing

Specialty interfacings are designed for specific purposes, such as interfacing with waterproof properties or fusible fleece, which adds padding and insulation to projects like quilts, bags, and outerwear.

• When to use it: Use specialty interfacing when your project requires unique characteristics, like extra insulation, thickness, or weatherproofing.

Choosing the Right Interfacing

When selecting interfacing, it’s important to consider the weight and drape of both your fabric and your project. Always test a small piece of interfacing on a fabric scrap before committing to the whole project. Here’s a quick guide:

• For lightweight fabrics like silk or cotton: Use lightweight interfacing to avoid stiffening the fabric too much.
• For medium-weight fabrics like linen or broadcloth: Medium-weight interfacing will provide the necessary structure without overpowering the fabric.
• For heavyweight fabrics like denim or canvas: Heavy interfacing will help maintain the integrity of your project, especially for items like bags or outerwear.

Interfacing is an essential tool in a sewist's kit, adding strength, structure, and durability to your projects. Whether you're working on delicate garments or sturdy home decor items, understanding the different types of interfacing and how to use them will elevate your sewing and help you create polished, professional-quality work.

Happy sewing, and don’t forget to experiment with different types of interfacing to find what works best for your projects!

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