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How I made my Butterick 4386 in Orange Linen with machine embroidery

I bought this butterick pattern some while ago and thought that it would look fantastic made up in a variety of fabrics. I have some pale grey silk dupion which will be lovely for parties later in the year but I wanted to make it up first of all in this orange Linen.
The fabric needed pressing and shrinking with a steam iron through a linen pressing cloth, i folded it in half matching the selvedges and proceeded to lay my pattern pieces out in my correct size.
I say this each and every time, please take your measurements and compare them to the pattern envelope, cutting out the pieces according to your measurements which could be two or three sizes different to your commercial dress size.
I decided on the version with small cap sleeves, knee length skirt and crossover front. This will be worn on summer holidays in hot climates so linen will be cool and the cap sleeves will protect my shoulders from the sun

Once everything is cut out you need to transfer all pattern markings onto your fabric. I like good old fashioned tailors tacks and sometimes tailors chalk, If you want to use these marking pens which fade in the air or in water do use them with caution because the marks sometimes don't disappear and they would spoil your garment. Always test them on a spare piece of fabric first. By the way ironing can make the marks permanent.

These are my tailors tacks all ready to be matched up and sewn. Tack the main body pieces together and try it on for your first fitting The next job is to stitch the darts in place, then press them to one side

When tacking  a garment for a fitting I find it easier to tack straight up the back and leave a side open. Put it on and just pin the un-tacked seam together.This is where we make any adjustments.

I love invisible zips, so that is what I am using here. If you open the zip and look closely at it you will see that it curls up towards the teeth. You need to press the zip flat taking care not to melt the teeth!

If you are at all unsure of how to stitch the zip in take two pieces of fabric and a spare invisible zip and fold seam allowances in place. Then put the zip behind the fabric and pin the zipper tape to the seam allowance. If you open it out you will soon be less confused I promise!

You need a special invisible zipper foot, Mine is a metal one, some machines have a plastic one, both do the job. Pin the first side of the zip to the fabric, you can use double sided basting tape here if you have some.

Start to stitch from the top down as far as you can, please not the zip should remain open. Pin  and stitch the second side the same way, again finishing near the end of the zip as far as you can go. Match the top of the zip  up carefully!
When it comes to stitching the centre back seam pin the centre back and using a normal zipper foot stitch from the bottom to the top matching up to where the stitching of the zip ends. This way you will not get a gap where the zip ends and the seam begins
Overlock or finish the seams in your own preferred way as you go, pressing each seam as you finish it.

I want to insert the front drape, so it is just a case of stitching the two bias cut pieces together, pressing the seam open on the sleeve board or ham, and basting it in place on the previously marked positions.
I stitched the (interfaced) neck facings on, clipped the curves and turned them right side out. basting them in place.
My new Bernina sewing machine has a massive embroidery stitch function and I wanted to try it out on this plain fabric. I chose a Black embroidery thread and a full bobbin also in black
After much practicing I settled on a couple of patterns I thought would look nice.

Using the seam guide I stitched the first line of embroidery close to the edge of the neckline. I also hemmed the sleeves and did the same stitch at the bottom of them too

I chose another stitch and did a row of that one around the neck and sleeves too. I remembered to check my bobbin thread at this point.

I find it easier to attach the sleeves before stitching the side seams. so, run a gathering thread around the sleeve head between the two markings and ease it into place. Stitch, press, overlock.

Once you have done that pin the side seams together from the sleeve edge to dress hem and stitch in one long seam. Overlock.
Try on and pin the hem. Press, baste in place

I added more machine embroidery around the bottom of the hem, doing two rows close together and one more an inch or so higher

This is what the neckline looks like, I am pretty pleased with the result.

The dress looks lovely with the crossover draped front and the easy to do machine embroidery and I am very pleased with it

The embroidery around the sleeve balances the neckline perfectly

As I said at the beginning I intend to make this design again in a pale grey silk dupion again incorporating some embroidery but making the sleeves three quarter length.
This is a very adaptable and wearable pattern and although linen creases a lot it will be perfect for holidays
I hope that you have enjoyed reading this. I would love to know what you think.
Happy sewing


See this post on Jaycotts Blog . Click here to go to Jaycotts blog

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