HOW I MADE A MANS SHIRT.
POSTED BY ANGELA ON 04 JUL
I have cut the main body of the shirt in the striped cotton but I want to add some interest so I have cut out front and back yokes in plain black.The yokes are going to be edged with red piping.
Turn under the seam allowances at the bottom of each yoke piece. Press.
Tack piping cord in place on the wrong side so that it just protrudes from underneath the hem you made as in the picture above.
Once you have done that place the yoke pieces on top of the back and front, and machine baste in place within the seam allowances at the neck and shoulders. Stitch the bottom of the yoke using a ZIPPER FOOT close to the edge of the piping.This enables you to get right up close to the piping.
Do this to the fronts and the back. NB You do not have to copy this idea if you do not want to, the shirt is lovely when made in just one fabric.
This is what the back now looks like
Using chalk or tailors tacks mark the positions of the pockets. Many people I know use disappearing or water soluble pens for transferring pattern markings onto their garment. There is nothing wrong with them as such, but you do need to be careful which fabrics you use them on. I rarely use them, the instructions might say that they disappear when left in the air or when dampened but on some fabrics the marks will not come off, and they could also become permanent if you iron them. So, I am not saying never use them, just use them with caution and test them on a spare piece of fabric. Me? I use the old fashioned method and use tailors tacks and chalk . Occasionally I do use tracing paper and a tracing wheel on very thick fabrics, again test them on a spare piece of fabric to make sure that nothing shows on the right side of the fabric.
We now come to the most important part of the shirt and that is the collar.You need to find out if the shirt is to be worn with a tie or not as it affects the weight and type of interfacing you will use. This one won't be but I still want some substance to it.
This is where a bit of designing came in again. I cut out two separate collars, the under collar I cut out normal size in the stripe, but I wanted to add an upper collar in plain black so I shortened the width and length of the pattern and cut out another collar.
These need interfacing and I chose a lightweight iron-on interfacing in lightweight and ironed it carefully onto all four collar pieces. (If you are doing the normal single collar, and a tie is to be worn you would choose a sew in heavyweight interfacing)
Stitch the interfaced collar pieces together around the bottom and sides. trim the corners and clip the curves, turn right sides out using a point turner and a hot iron
Join the two collars together by basting within the seam allowance
For the collar band I interfaced both pieces with light weight iron on interfacing but because the band has to support the weight of two collars without collapsing I inserted a piece of firm non-iron interfacing into the band as well.
Sandwich the collar between the collar band, stitch, turn right sides out and press.
Stitch the neckband to the neckline matching all markings and stitch. Turn under 5/8" on the reverse, tack in place and top stitch in place close to the seam line. Press.
You should now have something which looks like this
To insert the sleeves run a row of ease stitches between the notches and start to pin in place matching all the pattern markings. stich, press, overlock.
Stitch the side and sleeve seam in one operation matching the underarm seams. Overlock the edges.
You now have a shirt with sleeves. Don't forget to make sure that the fit is correct before you stitch the side seams!
Make the cuffs exactly in the same way as on my previous blog post CLICK HERE the only thing I did differently was to insert piping between the cuff and the sleeve for interest.
This is the point where we come to button holes. Mark the position of them all using the pattern markings as a guide.
This is the first time I have used the BUTTONHOLE FOOT on my new Bernina and I was wondering how easy or difficult it would be.
Out came the instruction book and some spare fabric. I measured the button and set the gauge to correspond. Then I tried it out, and it was much easier than I imagined it would be! I did however make the first trial buttonhole a bit too small, so I tried again., Perfect!
I set to work stitching all the buttonholes, nine down the front, one on each pocket flap and two on each cuff. The machine coped with them easily and I was impressed that the memory saved my setting and it automatically stitched each buttonhole exactly the same.
If you also are using a new machine it really is a good idea to practise a little too.
You will need a sewing needle, thread, and some beeswax which you can order from jaycotts along with everything else you will need. beeswax is used to strengthen the thread when you are stitching buttons on, it makes it stronger and less likely to tangle.
And here is the finished garment. Give it a final press and check for loose threads
You can see how attractive the back looks with the contrast yoke and piping.
And this is the final picture of the shirt being worn for the first time.
If you have never attempted sewing a shirt before do give it a go,There is a really good selection of patterns on Jaycotts.co.uk All of the major pattern houses have shirt patterns,some easier than others, so take a look at these MENS SHIRTS
I hope that you have enjoyed this post, If you have a photograph of a shirt you have made |I would love to see your picture, you can contact me through my blog or through Twitter on @sewingangela
Ps see my posts on the Jaycotts blog by clicking HERE
Posted By Blogger to #SewAngelicThreads on 7/03/2015 02:33:00 pm